But then again,at such a low $ amount, the closing costs might throw off the ratios.I have to run the numbers and see the diffences (cash on cash return, particularly) ...However, the BIGGEST problem i see with NOT getting a mortgage, is the repayment terms.8% at 5 or 7 years is going to KILL my initial roi.I will be paying out like 5-700 a month, and these places are likely to be pulling in only 560-800K a month.:( :( :(AAAAAAAAAAARRRGGGHHHHHhhhhhh!

My initial thoughts are, if there's such a large margin in the deal....why is the seller selling?

Make your initial offer really low, but expect a counter...go back and forth until you reach your max. buying price.

The initial cost ($350-$450) plus the per visit cost (another $50-$60 usually) and you only get your money back *if* you have something major go wrong and *if* they actually decide it is covered amongst the myriad of exclusions.

However, if you lowball, be prepared to get a counter offer which will have the initial sales price (agent saying go away) or something lower (agent saying lets negotiate).The listing agent may want you to provide proof of funds either by financing or cash, but other than that, they should have all necessary paperwork that you need.God Bless.

I wait to market the property if when initially talking to the seller I think there might be title issues (i.e. his dad gave him the property when he died).

Since sold to an investor after the initial contract purchaser walked away.

If none of these exist, and you can verify and qualify based on your income, you can get a loan with a 691 score!

Hi,I am just doing some initial work up front here, but I might have a deal for a bundle of 5 to 10 lots in an existing residential subdivision in Colorado near a ski area.

(For a lease option ad) - Buyers need $8000 down and verifiable income of $5000 per month in income"... the people with $2000 down, $2200 a month in income, and that can only afford $850 in monthly simply do not call.Give it a try...