The basement is designed to be finished with all of the rough pluming, private walk-out stairs, and several egress windows and the finished portion will be roughly 1700 sq ft. 

.- Main beam twisted and loly columns - bones of the house and that worries me- Back wood stairs that lead to backyard from 2nd floor are not properly attached to houseSo far Im bringing (2) more GC to provide estimates for repair of 3 items above and then go back to negotiate with sellers in this crazy sellers market :S.After this intro I wanna ask the community if you have any experience negotiating with issues above? 

Grading / foundation I need done, frame the garage walls onsite, deck / stairs onsite, then stitch the boxes is how I see it. 

-opened up the floor plan by removing a few non-load bearing walls-painted entire home-new can lights-new appliances for renters downstairs-scraped popcorn ceilings-new LVP flooring up and down stairs-new base and door casing-few exterior adjustments like small decks and cleaning up yard-added accents like shiplap wall and white-washed brick fireplaceThe basement rents at $850 /month and we rent a room upstairs to a friend for $300 /month.

I got an attorney familiar with the condo, it's HOA, and was advised to get a board resolution to cement the fact I got the approval.

.- Repair/replace/stain any wood deck/stair, skirting, exterior light, gutters.

Brick or cement. 

Those Stairs that Genny Li has in the photograph likely would last at least 50 years. 

The advantage to hardiboard is that fiber cement board is more thermally stable.

The product, as you mentioned, has a very thin wear layer AND the plans tend to be so rigid that I spent a decent amount of time fighting the warping from the pallet bands and cracks in the cheap T&G parts.I've since moved to a twice-the-price ProCore LVP product from Floor and Decor that has matching quarter-rounds, stair treads, and about anything else I need.