;) I think what Shiloh is looking for is to expand by getting cash contributed towards downpayments and rehab budgets, which would require borrowing at ratios in excess of 100% LTC.  

I do believe the 2 bars on back wall is excessive though. 

Most high end investors are not interested in making cash flow they are simply parking excess cash as a tax write off.

You have an excess of $178 per month and your cost is Zero.  

Might be excessive for some but to me it's more than worth it.

It is also unconstitutional to extort us for excessive fees, approximately $1300 in restitution costs for attaching 1.5 sheets worth of plywood to a door and window.Pursuant to Article 3, Section 20 of the 1874 Pennsylvania Constitution (as ratified without subsequent amendments):“The General Assembly shall not delegate to any special commission, private corporation or association any power to make, supervise or interfere with any municipal improvement, money, property or effects, whether held in trust or otherwise, or to levy taxes or perform any municipal function whatever.”Denial of Right to Security from searches and seizures. 

They are able to BUY the home at anytime at a pre-agreed upon price.HPA  has specific parameters for every state that you must follow, and as long as you look for homes that "meet" those parameters (you can't do homes under/near power-lines, no stucco, no aluminum wiring, no excessive remodeling/repairs, etc.)  

Even after the excesses leading up to 2007-2008, very few if any of the banksters went to jail.  

I believe as an investor if you start burning brokers/agents it will come back to bite you in the end.Whether you deem a commission to be excessive in your mind for the work performed should be irrelevant.If the numbers work you should work fast to close the deal and be happy about it.

Dear Mike Landry and the usual crew,,,,When installing any "drain tailpiece" under any sink or lavatory bowl it is very important to use the plumbing parts,,,Usually this involve a nice healthy fresh black rubber washer,a thin brass or nylon "friction ring" and finally a threaded slip nut with the flat section pointed upA careful application of fresh plumbers putty can help but is usually not need if this operation is done right,,,however ,,,and you wont believe this guys,,,I like to use the old standby Dap caulking in the red and white tube.Sqeeze out more than you need on the contact surfaces,tighten things up ,wipe off excess with a damp terry towel and if you have a "leaker" giving you trouble,let things dry overnight before you run water.Having said all that I strongly suggest you find find an old school mom and pop hardware with a good plumbing section that offers hands on help or a wholesale plumbing supply that will sell to the general public.Make a friend there and they will show you the correct parts use.You could be getting failure because you are using the wrong item,,,,Nothing is Standard in Plumbing,,,,Notice a message I'm giving here guys,,,always use new,supple fresh rubber parts when working with drains,brittle aged parts create leaks,,,An aside and a story about Dap.I had a plumber buddy who had a stray rock hit  his gas tank on his truck on the way home from a job .Fortunately he found the small hole leaking gas.Being at a lose what to do stuck out in the middle of no where ,,he cut out  a square piece of black neoprene rubber from a no hub coupling ,together a loop of electricians "tie wraps" and got out some "Dap".He applied Dap to the hole,covered it with the rubber patch and tightened up the tie wraps,,,the sucker worked,,no leak!!!