If you buy to rent, you can probably do this within six months if you have work lined up and getting pay checks.

Haven't heard of them, but will check them out. 

I use my license for multiple activities: Of course- comps, when buying and when selling, tax data- to see what I am about to pay when i own the home ( for long term holdings), check the DOM (days on the market) for the subdivision I am either buying on, or when I plan on selling, etc. 

I’m not sure if it has a pay bill feature, or checks.

After checking the local housing authority the SAFMR though the zipcode maximum is $1300.

Check on sites like BiggerPockets, Meetup, and Eventbrite. 

I tend to agree that we could be over leveraging ourselves and your comments are a good reality check but I did not paint the whole picture. 

I will have to come by sometime and check it out! 

Deduct NEW property taxes after you buyDeduct home insurance costsDeduct maintenance percentage, typically 10%Deduct vacancy+tenant nonperformance percentage(we recommend 5% for Class A, 10% Class B, 20% Class C, good luck with Class D)Deduct whatever dollar/percentage of cashflow you wantNow, what you have left over is the amount for debt service.Enter it into a mortgage calculator, with current interest rate for an investment property, to determine your maximum mortgage amount.Divide the mortgage amount by either 75% or 80%, depending on the required down payment percentage - this is your tentative price to offer.If the property needs repairs, you'll want to deduct 110%-120% of the estimated repairs from this amount.Be sure to also research the ARV and make sure it's 10-20% higher than your tentative purchase price.As long as the ARV checks out, this is the purchase price to offer.It is probably significantly below the asking price.

I would confirm by seeing the product then going out and checking comparables in that market that have sold.