When the new property manager went out to meet the tenant and do an inspection, he discovered that the fiberglass in the tub was cracked.

My first thought was that you'd be giving permission for kids to play in a room with lots of fiberglass floating around - yikes!

She then asked if the shower was fiberglass or tile and decided I'd never rent to her.

But, electric is the least maintenance and cheapest to install.One thing I did when I refurbished the old house on the Canadian border, is really insulated it - blew insulation into the exterior walls, under the house and in the attic I put really thick fiberglass insulation. 

If you decide to stick with steam make sure any exposed piping is adequately insulated with fiberglass - we had a problem with higher-than-average heating costs which we discovered was due to inefficient heat transfer through exposed pipes. 

In a few of our historic homes we refinished the hardwood floors in the living room, hallway, and bedrooms and keep those original.For tubs and surrounds, we prefer a porcelain or ceramic covered steel tubs or fiberglass.

The tub had a fiberglass liner over the old tub and the new one had cracked. 

Asphalt /fiberglass shingle---permit 02/20142.

I only cheated on the lower 1/2 bath with a code compliant AAV.We did all the work ourselves so labor was just the fun of doing it.Cost of materials: Main Bath about $2k, 1/2 baths about $225 each from my spreadsheet.We got most of the materials on sale at Lowes: Good quality fiberglass Bath tub $125 (small chip hidden by tile) the toilets $35/each (both non-stock returns), double vanity $175  (side against wall damaged).All the shower stall & floor porcelain tile 75cents/sq ft from auction, Pex, PVC & fittings $185, all elect $100, 1/2 bath vanities $35 each (slight side damage hidden) Lighting $75, all mirrors $100, shower diverter/faucets $275, exhaust fans $30 each on sale. 

We did one this year where we did R-50 attic blown in fiberglass.