I got several other varying degrees like use 6-mil vapor barrier over concrete with a pad, or don’t use it and just put the pad down with the plank or don’t use padding and just put down the plank.

If you could not remove all affected wood in the subfloor - sometimes not possible, if strong urine/fecal matter made it to joists - you should have sealed everything which could have been done in several ways - polyurethane everything; poly vapor barrier; painting & 1/4" subfloor on top of old floor; etc.2.

@Yi ZhaoI would’ve knocked on the door and given them a vaporizer for their ganja so at least they can make the smoke odorless lol and after they praise what a wonderful landlord you are (with red eyes) tell them they can either Vape their weed in their apt. with that or walk outside if they need to smoke “flower” but they can’t do what they are currently doing.

You can also get it with or without a vapor barrier.

I think it's rubber.A local contractor says the top layer should all come off and then depending on the condition of boards below, that may need to be ripped up, joists checked, new carpentry, new insulation between, vapor barrier, etc.

Over long periods of time vapor itself can leave a thin Vegetable Glycerine (VG) residue that is easily removed with a warm wet cloth.

The steel, PSI, and vapor barrier will usually not be adequate.

All that oil vapor accumulates on the walls and cabinets, and becomes a sticky mess over time because it's not getting sucked out fast enough.A powerful range hood would solve this issue, but they tend to be loud.

Contributing to this might be that my walls are also spray foam this exaggerates it since the house is very tight other than the small air leaks that are in the insulation.I was told by my contractor and the spray foam contractor that this foam didn’t need a vapor barrier since it dries with a water tight skin on it.

I plan on getting better ventilation, replacing the insulation that has some growth, and replacing the insufficient vapor barrier.