Is the crack going vertical or horizontal?  

(1) Friction surfaces are required to be treated only if: (i) Lead dust levels on the nearest horizontal surface underneath the friction surface (e.g., the window sill, window trough, or floor) are equal to or greater than the standards specified in 24 CFR 35.1320(b); (ii) There is evidence that the paint surface is subject to abrasion; and (iii) Lead-based paint is known or presumed to be present on the friction surface

They are square or rectangular and mount horizontally on a welded wire stand which is inserted into the corrugated plastic sign and other end into the ground.

Air pushes out of the horizontal and open vertical water lines, sputtering as it exits the faucets inside.

we had 6 ft in a basement & the HW tank was literally horizontal against the floor joists.apart from the pumps suggested get some of the high force fans to dry it out esp the electrical panel as it will get moist & it could short.

You'll want to pay special attention to movement of the foundation and horizontal bowing.

If you have a forced air system, rooms (be they closets or a small room - but generally speaking an area with a door) and there is no supply in it, they can get quite cool - even if the bedroom is comfortable.Before poking holes in walls (which is all you really need to do, just drill a 3/4" hole and inspect... visually or by sticking your finger in it... very easy to fill/patch), I'd check to be sure that the area above and below were insulated if they are attic/crawlspace/unheated basement.If it's not insulated, you could remove the drywall and install insulation or you could use loose fill using a series of larger holes - just be aware that horizontal bridging will require two sets of holes for each stud cavity.As for installing cedar... depends on type and thickness, but I prefer having a substrate regardless.

I am a vertical and horizontal developer and builder since 1994.

In your window issue, I believe the gap can only be verified by a foundation specialist, whether the foundation has moved, or the caulking has shrunk (rarely happens, almost never), if you're just checking, a simple verification is, if other windows doesn't have the same problem, it might be just the window, if windows have gaps in a vertical/horizontal position, then the building has settled, you couldn't do this if only one floor of window has been changed at the same time, then you're back to the foundation specialist.With regards to building, I believe that as a builder, you're not limited to "bare minimum", if the building's safety factor is 2.5, you could always raise it.

Then I organize them by the size/scope of the work they can do - e.g. full scale renovations w/ vertical/horizontal extensions, quick kitchen and bath renos, etc.