I'm certainly curious about actual experience with this.My properties are solidly class C in location and quality,   and my tenants generally aren't too interested in getting EVs themselves,   though most of them have gotten demo rides and stuck their noses under the hood of my car at one point or another.My 4-plex is well suited to EV charging upgrades - it has under building parking,  and the main breaker panels are in the ground floor laundry room meaning running cables out to the front wall for charging stations would be trivial.  

I may sub out the smoke damage cleanup but also may GC the majority of the demo.

Here's my rough numbers on an average rehab project.Tile install: $15/sqft plus cost of tile $1-$2/sqftLaminate: $1/sqft install $1-2/sqft materialsCarpet: $1.50-2/sqft including materials Vinyl floors: $5-7sqft including materialsAll these favor in demo, some prep, some trim.

There is a neighborhood revitalization programs via the city of Cincinnati that you can apply for help in which the city will demo a home that is beyond repair if you can submit a plan to rebuild SFH or multi-family which would improve the neighborhood.

Prepare for a tear-down or gut-out rehab, demo the whole house and leave 2 walls so you will skip "new construction" requirements and it will just be a regular remodel in the eyes of the law. 

Azibo is completely free to test, and someone from our team is willing to give you a full demo or help with onboarding if you want to check us out. 

I have done demos for DoorLoop and AppFolio and they both seemed a little bit too advanced for what I am trying to do.Do you have any recommendations of a good software to handle the day-to-day accounting tasks for a smaller portfolio?

This Arthur is just copying and pasting or rephrasing every reply he has to market Az.ibo@Kobe McDaniel a lot of them are listed and  you will need to just demo them if you plan to self-manage.

You could even let the president know that we would be more than willing to demo it over Skype or something if they have any interest!

Yo Jerry ,,,hope all is well up in "Gods Country"About your project;The easy answer is .when dealing with decomposed,rotten or failing pipe especially "rough cast iron drain pipe" it is best to simply remove and replace the original bad material.You want clean smooth surfaces on your drain lines especially if this is a rental,,it assures proper draining and trouble free service .In this case,Jerry I would take my time and do a thorough analysis and inspection of these original drain lines.I would certainly invite a competent local family owned and operated plumbing company to perform a sewer video camera inspection and make you a dvd showing the condition of the drainlines.If you have cracked cast iron pipe above ground its very likely you have more of it along with cracked 4" red clay drainpipe underground.If this is the case ,you must bite the bullet and have it replaced.Cracked pipe can be saved with epoxy "lining systems" but I'm not crazy about them.Yeah they are OK if done right,but at the end of the day you still have cracked crummy pipe with a liner.I like to dig up ,remove and replace bad drainpipe.Another better alternative is Trenchless Pipe Replacement or "Pipe Bursting" ,,,with this process you break the original cracked pipe out of the way and actually "pull " new PE polyurethane drainpipe using the old pipe as a guide or conduit.Check out the many excellent animated and real video footage  demos of the process on You Tube,,,,,I dont like mixing cast iron with the black ABS plastic drain pipe.I like one or the other.No hub cast iron pipe is much more durable than ABS but really doesnt cost much more.However ABS will work fine if properly installed,that means pipe and fittings are glued properly and horzontal pipe is installed and "hung" at a 1/4" inch per foot grade.You asking me about burying Fernco rubber "boot" fittings underground.I dont like them .Burying a UPC code approved "No Hub Coupling" which is a black neoprene sleeve covered by a pliable stainless steel jacket is fine.Again if its installed properly.Youll need whats called a no hub torque wrench and you tighten these suckers up to 72 inch pounds.Your friendly counterman at the local Plumbing Supply House will show you how they work.But while you there,,,I would make friends with that counterman and at least ask for a referal to a competent local plumber that takes on small projects invite him to look at your job and get an honest opinion of the condition of your drainlines and whats needed to correct things.Then youll know without a doubt whether its a DYI project or a case where your better off hiring a pro,Good luck Jerry and hope this helpsDD in L.A