The dirt compaction and consistency of dirt type are the major contributors to cracking.Floor Sweating: use clear plastic underneath pour.Heat/Cooled building--Vapor barrier for floor to help keep sweating/humidity down.

I also understand retro insulation in walls can be an issue because old houses are not air/water/vapor sealed and require air flow to dry out the framing and prevent rot. 

One bad sub can easily result in the savings from acting as a GC vaporizing.  2) Coordinating the various subs and managing the tasks requires time and the first time you do it there are likely to be some inefficiencies that result in lost time and increased costs.  3) it takes effort. 

He installed a French drain in the basement along the problem wall with a sump pump and vapor barrier on the walls, so we didn’t need to do anything on the outside of the house.

It is very messy and hard work and the vapors are not good to breathe.It is like 5 procedures and If you decide to rent a machine and do it, after about the second procedure you wish you hired it out!

The biggest remaining items pertain to the crawl space and the parking situation.Here is an itemized list of repairs:Big roots cracking our asphalt driveway directly in the way of people walking into the unitsCrawl space vents broken/missingCrawl space vapor barrierMold on support post(s) in crawl spaceInsulation hanging down in crawl spaceRodents in crawl space (hire a professional or crawl the tiny space and bait stations?)

After purchasing - we discovered there was contamination over the state thresholds - which required additional studies (soil vapor, etc).

Her balance is going up every month.

Looking at that picture again if there are weep holes they are underground which would minimize or negate their effectiveness.Water, vapor, moisture, etc always gets into the cavity and that is ok.

It would also vaporize 80% of the STRs in the city.