D.C. isn’t necessarily more per sf, it’s permits on structural adjustment’s and dealing with dcra, can be very hard (though I find dc extremely easy if you don’t need a building permit.) as far as finishes, those are usually about 20% of my budget (labor being the other 80%) and the difference between higher end and building grade finishes is generally negligible (think 5-10k difference on a 150-200k reno.) 

Not sure how effective this would be or not, but am throwing it out there to see if anyone can poke any holes in it before I consider adopting it myself.Lastly, may I ask what makes you think all layers of protection would strip off in the event of a CO leak (or any other situation the owner is considered negligent, which I assume you’re inferring here?)?

@Albert Hasson - You and I have different definitions of the term negligible.

The tenant's personal property is not your responsibility unless you did something grossly negligent that caused the damage.

Stop work orders are annoying, sue him for negligence while paying it off and move on.

Once it does, or you believe it will soon, then I'd refi to get the most out possible (to me, 65/mo is basically the same as 90/mo - both are almost negligible) if you need the money.Honestly, considering the work going into landlording, even a free $65/mo may turn out to be below minimum wage.

Depreciation can be added back in, but it's likely a negligible amount.  

My tenants had to be out of their home for almost 2 weeks due to no negligence of their own or mine (sewer main collapsed).  

That's willful negligence, at best. 

The bigger slats look more upscale for negligible cost.5.