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21 November 2017 | 4 replies
This is going to be my home and I want a 1950s-1970s neighborhood with .25 to .75 acres, a garage, hardwood floors and completely dated.
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3 February 2018 | 12 replies
I have hardwood floors on the first level and have decided to replace the carpet upstairs with something more durable.
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21 November 2017 | 5 replies
Do the units have carpet, hardwood, or vinyl?
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28 November 2017 | 4 replies
We purchased $6/sft hardwood for ~$2/sft when we installed new flooring @ our home.
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16 December 2017 | 16 replies
Wednesday removed more tile, hardwoods and drywall with mold.
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26 November 2017 | 4 replies
Plan is to rent 2 unfurnished/6 mo leases + 2 furnished short term/AirBNB.My house just closed last week and now I'm in the process of fixing it up cosmetically (drywalling over old 50's ceiling tile, ripping up old carpet + refinishing the hardwood underneath, painting, new floors everywhere that doesn't have hardwood).
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26 November 2017 | 14 replies
Wow this question is so vague I have no idea how to give specifics...On a 10' x 10' room (similar to your standard bedroom) I can remove everything down to the studs in one day.1/2- 3/4 day to rewire (simple cosmetic such as changing the number or location of outlets if you're actually changing the wires itself up to higher codes it can be 3+ days depending on how the house is wired and accessibility)1/2-1 day to insulate1/4 day for any windows or doors that would need replacing for the 1 room2 days for drywall (so long as the studs are straight and level)25 hours of taping (+/- 5 hours depending on the number of corners/edges) spread over 7 days usually front loaded 3-4 hours the first 2 days, then 2-3 hours for the remaining 5 days.2 days painting; 2-3 coatsflooring will depend on the product you're using but unless it's hardwood or laminate you can usually get it done 1 day.1 day trim and molding1 day clean and finishing touches.One thing that shouldn't be overlooked is the time it takes to purchase the materials and get them to the job site.Another is where you can actually do the work.
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26 November 2017 | 2 replies
It has a lot of hardwood floors...ive read somewhere about putting lamiate over the hardwood as it is more tenant proof and you can protect the wood for when you sell?
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29 November 2017 | 6 replies
Possibly using a professional third party vendor for the pre-inspection is a great idea, give a copy to the owner and tenantExcessive holes in walls Broken tiles or fixtures in the propertyPlumbing backupsRepainting where a tenant has repainted from the original colorTears, holes, stains or burn marks in carpetsMissing or damaged blindsBroken windows and window screensBroken doors and locksBroken or damaged appliancesExcessively DirtyPest control if you see Bugs and or fleasJunk or trash left behindPast Due rentFees incurred from fines from the association due to the tenants conduct or lack thereofWater damage to hardwood floorsMissing outlet coversRemotes for garage or gate if not returnedRekey of locks if tenants did not return the keysUnpaid utilities, as long as they were part of the lease agreementUndoing a tenant alterationThis is a sample of things that are usually considered to be normal wear-and-tear and should not be deducted from a security deposit:Slab or plumbing leakNormal rug wear.
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4 December 2017 | 2 replies
It's not in too bad shape, but was a smoker's house and hasn't had any cleaning done in years.Based on a quick walk-through I'm looking at internal painting, minimal external painting, carpet replaced (or removed to get to the hardwood floors where possible), a bunch of minor repairs to things like gutters/eaves/etc.In a perfect world, this relationship would continue to care for the property as issues occur in the future.