Quote from @Levi Perl: Have a class C property. 

Class midwest issues. 

One effective strategy to maximize unit potential is to explore opportunities for adding extra units, especially in C-Class properties.

Just don't combine old and class D unless you have a very good reason. 

Both asset classes have their place.

I like to stay in the working class areas as they make enough to pay the rent and bills, but don't have the financial discipline to save enough to purchase their own home. 

They can simply take a class.

The collateral is so so and some have preferences such as certain asset classes they will invest in, but generally speaking, you can obtain an equity deal with very little skin in the game. 

Deduct NEW property taxes after you buyDeduct home insurance costsDeduct maintenance percentage, typically 10%Deduct vacancy+tenant nonperformance percentage(we recommend 5% for Class A, 10% Class B, 20% Class C, good luck with Class D)Deduct whatever dollar/percentage of cashflow you wantNow, what you have left over is the amount for debt service.Enter it into a mortgage calculator, with current interest rate for an investment property, to determine your maximum mortgage amount.Divide the mortgage amount by either 75% or 80%, depending on the required down payment percentage - this is your tentative price to offer.If the property needs repairs, you'll want to deduct 110%-120% of the estimated repairs from this amount.Be sure to also research the ARV and make sure it's 10-20% higher than your tentative purchase price.As long as the ARV checks out, this is the purchase price to offer.It is probably significantly below the asking price.

The market here feels like it’s on the verge of a shift—many investors who bought in the last few years may need to sell, which could open doors for those of us ready to take action.A little about me: I grew up in a working-class family where I started young, helping my father and uncle manage their properties and businesses.