We're now laser focused on our home turf with mailers to every door in a small geographic area.

You can run a support beam if you really want to move the wall, even if it is load bearing. 

(You made it seem more complicated than I reckon it needs to be).Am I missing something?...

I won’t go into all the details of the project, but after removing drywall, rewiring, replacing rotted beams and installing 37 insulated windows, I was suddenly $19,800 over my budget and started having to come out of pocket for the remaining work needed.As I look back at this “flip” it’s obvious that the majority of my mistakes were made by poor planning on my part, especially when it related to contractors.

I invited a structural engineer to the property who told me there is no structural issues with the house and the wall that runs along the hall is not a load bearing wall but to extend the living room, dining room, kitchen and bedrooms into that space would require at least 3 foundation footings, a foundation beam and a 1 hour firewall to be built.

So I guess my two main concerns now would be, am I in the right market to invest, and if not, how do you read and determine whether a market is a good one to get into?

New electrical and plumbing have suppossedly been completed as well as additional framing and new beams for the previous owner's planned layout.  

They wanted us to have a foundation company come in and waterproof the FINISHED basement, because there were signs of rust on one of the steel beam columns (the basement was flooded when we bought the house the power was off).

@Kathy Beam Thank you!

Frass, exit holes and shelter tubes noted at basement center carrying beam right side and all over bulkhead door area.