
12 May 2014 | 24 replies
Brandon,I would think your exterior wall assembly probably has cedar shakes over some sort of sheathing (plywood or osb) and vapor barrier such as tyvek or felt paper and maybe even rigid insulation.

16 June 2014 | 3 replies
Many are interlocking and float over a vapor and moisture barrier.
11 November 2012 | 15 replies
Removed and redid the ceiling drywall and vapor barrier.

12 January 2013 | 7 replies
Don't believe me, check this out from energy.gov http://energy.gov/energysaver/articles/moisture-controlA poly vapor barrier can help in these areas as well, again as long as you tightly seal the area - around doors, windows, outlets, etc.

10 March 2013 | 10 replies
When I last had to replace a line set, the tech said that if the line has been open to the elements for a prolonged period of time, particularly during high humidity, that there's a fair chance that enough water vapor and whatnot has gotten into the condensor that there will be problems down the road.

25 February 2014 | 20 replies
If I am doing tile I just use the mortar and tile for the vapor barrieor.

16 March 2014 | 1 reply
Is there a proper vapor barrier or radon mitigation system installed if needed.

27 February 2012 | 17 replies
I was planning on converting it to a SDIRA and buy a rental once I see whether or not I stink at picking rentals and being a landlord - I don't want to vaporize my IRA.

19 April 2012 | 16 replies
You may have a condensation problem if there was a vapor barrier between the plaster and sheetrock.

4 May 2013 | 6 replies
If not, I'd fill in the missing pieces and have the vapor barrier down, which is the practice in my area.