That cement path that wraps around the prop and the walk way toward the door... if you have enough, perhaps brick those.

I would get a floor grinder and sand down the top coat of the cement.

So, a quick rough estimate of my expected usage: portland cement to water ratio is 2:1 with no aggregate added, foam to slurry ratio roughly 4:1.

He is stuck shoveling cement, because they can't get people to show up for work.

I would raise the post above the new cement and even then avoid having wood touch the cement as the bottom will simply rot over time quicker if they are in direct contact. 

I am trying to find repair estimates for these items for a 1880sq Home cape style home. these are the items im looking to get a quote- Roof trims need repair–there are signs of seeping near the skylight windows second floor–adjustable lollies need to be replaced with cement lollies–garage is in need of foundation repairs.

I'm looking for suggestions on what I can put on the floor (currently cement) and walls (currently brick) to water proof it but not have to rip up and destroy if water finds its ways in again.

Hi Dana,In addition to paint, maybe put a strip of black indoor outdoor carpet just in front of the door (and on the steps if they are not cement).That area is going to take most of the abuse of moving (scraping appliances and furniture) in and out, as well as most of the foot traffic.Cut 3 or 4 more sheets and toss them in the attic for future use.A hand full of staples is much cheaper and faster on turns than a full repaint.Also keep in mind that is a long narrow space and Lighter colors make things appear larger, darker colors--the opposite.Good Luck!

In my part of the country, you have to put a mobile home on a cement foundation if it is not in a park.

I rent a house (I live in the house), and when it rains alot, and the ground is saturated, a small river starts coming out from the foundation, runs down the cement stairs and goes down a drain.