They sell a little install kit that has a plastic block used to snap them together and a metal bar that you use for the pieces next to the wall.

Plastic coated cable works well.If the rope isn't on the window you'll need to pull off one side of the sash and pull the window out (lower part of a double hung) and screw in to attach the rope.Put the weights on so that in the full down position the weights are just below the opening at the roller wheel

Rather than using ABS (plastic) for the drains he installs cast-iron that has a life expectancy for commercial purposes for 15 years.A city inspector catches the Hispanics working on the job and the city stops the work.

A plastic splash guard, as @Colleen F. indicates, will definitely help in this case.

I now provide pre-cut thick plastic washable shelf liners and actually have a clause in my lease about damage to cabinets -- no nails, push pins, other sharp objects (I've had tenants hang pictures with pushpins on side kitchen cabinets, screwed in hooks to hang things) and that stains and damage to cabinetry will not be considered normal wear and tear.   

Sorry for confusion I just got out of surgery I’m a little groggy from the anesthesia.

I'll make the analogy again about Doctors-- They all go to medical school, but you don't go to a podiatrist for brain surgery.

I also within the past three years have had 2 babies and a major surgery that kept me out of work for almost a year total.

So my questions are more related to if I go on a per room basis and buy beds, my mom suggested buying mattress protectors and plastic sheets for the beds to protect them.

Hopefully it didn't crack in the bottom...when you install a fiberglass/plastic tub you are supposed to lay down a bed of mortar for it to sit in so it doesn't flex while you and a lot of water are in it