Whomever you hire is going to use mortar or some other sealant (if you end up hiring someone try to be there so you can learn how to do the work - it's always good to know).

Account Closed There is no flooring which is completely pet proof ... we have a full gut renovation underway which can serve as proof of that.That said, if you could get an effective sealant layer on polished concrete that was tough enough, you might come close ... though it would not be much fun in our northern climates.Despite having been bitten by poor pet-owners in the past, we are considering renovating a complete building (5-units) with pets in mind and are looking at commercial grade linoleum - the kind used in hospitals.  

I've always been a bigger fan of quartz though, they're almost as hard as granite for durability but the pores are larger which allows for better sealant retention.

Id spend the bucks on the finish/sealant if I had to choose.

Concrete needs sealed, and sometimes that sealant can be damaged by heat.

The seams typically need to be sealed with fire-rated sealant to prevent smoke from passing through seams.

The "bad side" of the roof might only require you to fix the chimney flashing or slap on some good roofing compound over a small area or pull off and replace a few three-tab shingles, or even just glue down some loose shingles with sealant to get three or four more years out of the "bad side."

Appears a hot pot melted the sealant or a food acid sat on there.Go through your icloud or photo storage and see if you have image dated around move in and use as dispute.

And it CAN be oiled, JUST oil, no clear coat, sealant coat, none of that that's why I use Ipe Oil ( a little trick). 

If you do not apply at least a sealant primer to the drywall before installing cabinetry, the unprimed drywall remains quite vapour permeable and will allow moisture movement into the wall.