I am trying to specialize in energy efficient homes and I'm thinking that the thermal and moisture protection division will vary a lot due to differences in the climate the house is being built, precipitation, solar orientation of house, level of energy consciousness of buyer, price of solar pv, local source of recycled materials, additional labor to air seal and insulate correctly, etc. 

As for the basement I knew from my inspection that the sump pump wasn't working in the basement and a bit of moisture was coming in from the back wall.

Tile will hold up the best to moisture but have to be careful if there's deflection in the subfloor then the tiles could crack.

When it is set, yet still has moisture in it, it can be scraped to smooth so that top coats go on nicely.

In other words, the cost of preparing the area, breaking tiles, cutting open the slab, excavation to the pipe, backfilling with clean fill, termite pesticide application, moisture barrier, rebar epoxy to old slab, pour new slab, new tiles are all covered, the $150 to fix the actual leaking pipe was not covered.I had a collapsed fitting under the house confirmed by camera. 

The tenant had just notified me that this crack has appeared in the bathroom ceiling,  No moisture appears to be in the ceiling.  

Is there any chance it's not a stain from the mat from above but moisture/mildew coming from the subfloor?

The drip edge wasn't installed properly and they put the hardy on the eves with no osb or moisture barrier behind it.

@Frank Sanchez Hey Frank, before you buy keep in mind a few things: the moisture/humidity/mold in the  crawl is a dynamic thing.

Crawl space isn't a typical breeding ground for fleas, but it could be if there is a lot of junk and moisture down there.