Fellow local BPers....slowly inching along with education and deal analysis.  

Many times I've found that the tank removal guys never hide the 2 - 3/8's inch copper pipe leading in from the tank or they do a poor job covering it up.  

I used base rock (4-6 inches of class 2 base rock compacted at 2-inch lifts), an inch or so of sand, pavers, and a polymer modified sand (which has a little bit of bonding strength) to fill the joints between pavers and prevent weed growth.

But for FHA loans specifically the home must be from the factory on location, have the tongue and axles removed, and ideally have a mortar-based skirting, which means a 12x12 inch concrete base under the skirting around the perimeter of the home.

I am inching closer and closer to making my first purchase (hopefully within 3 months).  

That's how I found out I had a inch wide crack in my cast iron stink pipe.

There is some water damage on the laminate floor near the back door (where I think it was left open) and bottom 4 inches of the doorframe is a little rotted.

From what I have learned from the county department people,  the top of the risers of the tank need to be atleast 6 inch above the grade which they are not, the soil where the drain field was has settled a little more than the surrounding area. need to add some fill for the slope on the drain field and the entrance of the tank need to be sealed.

I would suggest however, keeping the drawers (preferably three or four 15-18 inch wide) beside the dishwasher, and at least one beside the stove.  

It's got 6 spots, 3 mobiles in there, a shop, and a restaurant (which I want no part of I'd turn it into storage or something) Every inch of my home town,  trailer loving spirit wants to own this park.