I can now rewire most of a house I really enjoyed it,the work does  tear your hands up.The issue I have figured out it takes  the correct  tools so you end up with a garage  full of tools.I have seen how to set beams for a foundation and helped do it ,  not that hard really follow  some set rules, rent  a jack hammer the rest is just common tools .I could ramble on for me I get a real enjoyment out of working  on a house so I really make it a challenge to get it right .

Focus like a laser. 

If you are dealing with an addition built on 12" beams (or if the original foundation is old and not built to current standards), the repair company might not be able to push the piers down to refusal depth or psi due to the beam not taking the load, thus leveling it, but not guaranteeing it will not continue to move in the future, thus not providing warranty.9.

In general, it is 7 feet minimum with some exceptions around beams and duct work.Yes you need an emergency escape window.

I also came across Ally or Beam giving the best interest rates out there. 

If your attic is open rafters, which basically means there’s not plywood laid out and you can see the wood beams running across the attic floor, and the insulation is in between the rafters, you can “encapsulate” by laying out subfloor throughout the attic floor to the roof line and seal it off.

Also, it slopes in the bathroom but has peril beams so I don't believe that would be a huge issue let me know if I am wrong about that.Also, how are you guys accurately calculating after-repair value?

You could expand them toward the first floor and stop the first floor joists short with a beam.

If you’re on pier and beam it’ll make things a lot easier 

I run my two ductwork "zones" on each side of the support beam in the basement.