Its not usually cut and dry so more of the story would help.

This may also cause home owners to second guess that option as well, for why go to all the trouble if it could blow up on you like this.Ryan I agree with you about that it disincentivize us to build more when they can just turn around and screw over landlords.  

Super dry.

Each individual needs to assess their own ability to handle costs over that time frame when cash flow may dry up.

Hi all, my LTR (Boston, built in the 1930's) has some cracks in the basement walls that I didn't think were too serious (owned for 10y, some water and flaking but mostly dry).

Windows would be my next check-point (less than R1) and then wall insulation: I would not be surprised if they have no insulation inside, but you can do blow-in, which only requires a small hole.A home looses heat in two ways: heat conduction (which you can slow down with insulation) and drafts, which in old houses is usually the biggest culprit.

Most who make $500k don't have nearly enough dry powder on the sideline to scale a real estate business quickly enough without making huge personal sacrifices for an extended period of time.

Buyers have pretty much dried up and have the power currently.

They’re built for heavy use and have faster drying times—usually 30–45 minutes—without needing major electrical changes.If you’re up for a bigger investment, adding extra stackable units in the garage could be a great long-term fix, though it’ll mean some electrical work and setting up proper ventilation.I’d probably go for the commercial upgrade in your current space first—it’s quicker and might solve the bottleneck right away.

After assessor comes out and consults with insurance company, they'll send demo guys out to come do demo work and remove wet drywall, insulation, etc. they'll usually put down dehumidifiers and let the place air out a bit to see what actually needs replacing and what was able to dry out.