For even more accuracy, we choose to only use comps that are 1/3 mile away or less, with sales dates within the last six months.Sometimes, even the street can make a difference in the value of a property.If the only comps you have are on very nice streets, but the house you’re considering is on a very “distressed” street, then you have to reduce the ARV.How much is an appropriate reduction is a judgment call on your part.You’ll want to base that call on how much of a discount will be necessary to entice the final owner/occupant to buy this property over one they can get on the “better” street.If the comparable sale that you are using is too different from the subject property, then it is of little value.If you use it in your sales marketing, you’ll lose credibility with your Investor Buyers.An example of a poor comparable is when your subject property is an old cottage fixer-upper, and you compare it to the sale of a brand new in-fill (an in-fill is a new house built on a vacant lot in an otherwise established neighborhood).Rehab dollars vary according to level and detail of the job – everyone has a different formula.As a wholesaler, we suggest a middle-of-the-road approach for estimating enough rehab dollars to get the subject property to look like the comps.You’ll need to spend more on rehab as the ARV increases.Logically,buyers like more ‘pretty-ness’, higher-end fixtures, cabinets, etc. when they’re paying $200,000 vs. when they’re only paying $100,000 for a house.Buy/Sell/Hold costs are all of the costs associated with:üThe purchase (loan origination fees, title insurance, attorney fees, survey, appraisals, etc);üThe sale (real estate agent commissions, marketing and advertising, closing costs paid by the Seller); and üHolding the property (mortgage interest, utilities, taxes, insurance, etc.).

If you want to go the template route, then you can purchase an Oregon specific assignment contract, or any other form you can possibly think of, from Stevens-Ness - some of them have very old language in them though... 

I listened to the book during my drive and it really breaks everything down into numbers and strips out the emotion and hope, which I think you'll need in order to actually be that one of 50...For me, personally, the hardest part is the passive-ness.

Also visit brokers sites such as marcus millichap, Colliers, Sperry Van Ness.

There are countless brokers, you can also look into Sperry Van Ness, Cushman Wakefield, Marcus Millichap.  

Some lenders will "sort of" consider it kinda like a refi if that lender/underwriter has a program to track accepted rent payments via servicing over the lease option time frame, but that would have to be something you set up up front with the seller/buyer, and you'd have to find a lender that has a program like that (I've heard about mumblings that this exists, but I've yet to speak to a lender that really offers this - I think this sort of program may actually be like the mumblings of the loch ness monster, or big foot - doesn't actually exist in the wild, but people still talk about it as if it does).

Originally posted by @Jordan Ness:@Russell BrazilThat makes sense thank you , so to clarify a couple of questions1 does the selling broker then collect brokerage from both sides ie buyer and seller in this case ?

I’m in south central off 92nd and van ness and curious if the new changes would be more favorable for our conversion. 

Cant you just go to office Depot and buy them right there right next to the lease agreements and rental agreements I know in Oregon they are called Stevens Ness .. pretty basic contracts that are used all the time..  

Some people can't see past the messy-ness.