Since the house was built in 1885 it has a stone foundation which are meant to have moisture from time to time to "breathe".

you will need a miter saw table saw jig saw with at least a 60 OR 72 BLADE,, also use rosin paper as a moisture barrier not the stuff lumber liquidator trys to sell you

.- Had the unit under contract for sale- pre-sale inspection found moisture in the wall.- needed to get out of the hard money and refinance with a bank.- couldn't refinance because there was an issue with the documents the daughters of the deceased signed- had to reach back out to them again.- refinanced the property with a bank.

If the "cracks" are in the grout lines, and in particular, in a "wet" area such as tub surround or shower floor, this is a bigger problem as it is likely allowing significant moisture to reach your subfloor and cause wood rot.Tile jobs will typically take three working days to complete properly, so your Tenants will need options for use during that time.

Leakage will leave a trail of typically white sediment, and often lead to a joint or corner where the moisture settles and actually rots the wood or attracts carpenter ants/termites.

But this is because the people advising me know that I have history in construction and I can spot major issues in the foundation and structure or if the house has a moisture problem.

Also the moisture content in the home was high as the paint is separating from the drywall, and this can be a sign of mold growing in drywall.

When we took moisture readings in that area during the pre-purchase inspection, they were off the scale ... as was the odor.In this case, there was a 3/4" plywood subfloor with ~2" of hard foam (polystyrene) insulation between it and the concrete slab.

I can also purchase information pamphlets on mold/moisture and lead-based paint that I am required (by federal law) to give to tenants upon move in.

You want to try and keep moisture level consistent around the entire perimeter of the foundation.