For me to just change the Furnace we will need to temp disconnect the coil so it can be elevated.

If you have a/c with the furnace, make sure there is a secondary drain pan installed under the evaporator coil to prevent water damage when the primary drain gets clogged.

Like most other things on houses 85% of the work is FIELD WORK which requires no brains, just a hammer (air nailer!).

I'd rather pay for the cheap filters than deal with bigger issues like coil cleaning. 

There will probably be a couple that bring up the point that that changing filters every month or the A/C coils freeze doesn't sound quite right, just as is being done here.Having a regular HVAC guy inspect the setup from the start would have kept this a nonissue.

If the thermostat is set too low it will develop ice/frost on the coil inside of the unit.

The most common issues are dirty air filters, bad capacitors (usually go out in summer and can be ordered for less than $10 on Amazon), bad breakers (usually trip in winter with electric step heat), dirty coils (I clean coils during tenant turnovers), bad thermostats, and low refrigerant.

I have had to clean one due to a tenant frying food all the time and clogging up the coil.  

And depending on what you want it will run into a small air handler with a coil and fan, or if you choose a “mini split” there will be multiple line sets running to the “heads” basically the fan and coil all in one that mounts inside the room and looks very nice.Depending on the square footage and what the original heat pump was (air handler with duct work already installed?)

The 2x4s in the pictures are just nailers, used to add very little strength, mostly to hold the joists up during framing.