The other thought is double drywall with acoustic sealant (green glue) in between.

Then caulk gaps in window and door trim and anywhete else with a good sealant...Maybe use dynaflex from home depot.

We then seal all edges of the boot and the tops of the nails with Thru-the-Roof sealant....best long term fix I know of.  

Make sure you have some sealant on the nipple so there's no leaks.

Also, I'd probably pour it right up to the house (maintain expansion joint / sealant) -- the little strip of dirt isn't gaining you much.  

This allows me to create more equity and leave less in the property.sink $120 (min depth 8")Cabinets X 10 ($1000)Toe kick ($20) and filler strip ($15)10 ft Laminate ($120)Knobs and pulls ($60)Faucet ($60)Laminate end splashes $(30)Build up block kit ($10)Caulk ($3)P-trap ($10)Sink sealant & putty ($10)Drain kit ($10)Water supply lines x2 ($15)Lowes Frigidaire Range and Fridge ($1000)With about 20hr labor I pay 3k a kitchen.

Adding sheets of 5/8s drywall with green glue noise sealant between the drywall layers I heard is very affective.

That being said, we are still going through the recommended steps of sealing all of the exposed surfaces with an airtight sealant.

The listing agent came back with the inspection report from the previous purchaser from May, and asked if I could use that and remove the contingency.As I read through the report, it became apparent why the buyer backed out-Loose vinyl siding with potential animals living inside, caulk/sealant missing from trim on doors, moisture intrusion on windows with soft spots and exterior cladding loose, shingles missing from roof with light visible from the attic, cracked floor joists, first floor uneven with large slopes (you could skydive off the leveler before you hit the ground), uneven stairs, signs of inward movement on the foundation with masonry recommendation, active leak in basement pipe.I'm trying to be creative in making this work.

No more fighting with sealants, caulks, etc. everything is nice and smooth now.