so... a furnace built in the 60's is going to be about 60% efgicient. a modern furnace will be in the 90% effecient range. many cities and counties offer rebates to help pay for the upgrades.if you cant get the billing individually assigned to the tennants, i would look into this.i would also consider removing the old school thermostats and replacing with an automation system where you can limit their temperatures a little bit...

It was stated that brick aids in temperature regulation for a home.

The landlord has to, by law, provide a heating source that would be able to heat the unit at x height to x temperature.

But then I am a perfectionist and would like someone else’s opinion.I understand the PSI fluctuates with outside temperature and I have only been able to stop by in the evenings. 

Is it that the electronic temperature selector won't go any higher, or is it that they're using some kind of thermometer?

Temperature variation across the length of the planks is probably contributing, an inadequate moisture barrier underneath, the contractor didn't seal the ends of planks near the door, or maybe there's not enough of an expansion gap between the walls and the floating floor in that area. 

It’s freakin cold in MD, and I’d argue that that it’s not appropriate to paint at these temperatures.

The unit has a diverted which then allows each unit to control their own temperature.

Nothing worse than unsweet tea at room temperature (or worse, cold) with sugar mixed into it.

My question is, which would be more energy efficient: setting the thermostat at 65 and just leaving it, or actually programming it to drop the temperature when I leave and warm it up when I come back?