One option that I was considering was having a humidity sensor and kill switch, LED lights, etc.  

In fact some of the older panels are deemed obsolete & should be replaced, especially if you see surface rust on the bottom shelf of the panel.Here's a pic showing busbar corrosion on the one I replaced due to years of basement humidity/moisture.Good luck....

- remove existing tile - remove drywall in surround and window area to the ceiling - replace drywall with hardibacker redgard hardibacker large porcelain tiles (16x16, 12x24) with smallest grout spacing possible- highest quality caulk that is mildew-resistant - tile floors, 4" base/behind/beside toilet, in addition to tub surround all the way to ceiling - angle tiles away from block window - re-install shower curtain rod  - replace fan/light with higher-performance model with humidity sensor - inspect fan ventiliation to confirm vent going through ceiling - inspect bath, sink, toilet plumbing and waste drainpipes - add quarter turn water shut-off valve - replace bath fixtures to single stem handle - replace bath drain with grid drain

Good point on the temp Bryan, glad to have a contractor in on the discussion.As far as the boiler condition, it's in the basement which gets fairly humid, inspector just made mention that some of the control panel, circuitry, components, etc look rusted and should be serviced as a precaution.

The first floor unit gets really humid.

The HVAC system was laying on its side underneath the house and moisture, flooding, humid Texas environment really did it in. 

Unfortunately it needs to be humidity controlled, so a house at this point is still pretty ideal. 

So, in a few of the single family houses I have recently purchased for rentals, the basements are fairly humid. 

In addition, where I live the temp drops at night due to proximity with ocean (especially when not humid).  

Two blamed the weather/humidity.