All Forum Posts by: Cathy Svercl

yes, gas heat is more efficient than electric.  you should consider upgrading your insulation (especially in the attic) and weatherproofing all doors and windows, too.

when you say "owner build" do you mean hiring a Contractor, or actually building this yourself?  do you have construction experience?  if you do it yourself, it will probably take much longer, so that should go into your spreadsheet.  also include time spent waiting for the drawings to be finished, for the loan paperwork to come through, and then time spent waiting for the permit to be approved.

not knowing your area (I'm in Florida), make sure you know what $85 psf gives you.  here, that sounds like a DIY project and basic/minimal finishes.  hiring a Contractor for a custom Triplex starts at $125-$150 and can go up with choice of finishes.  (i'm an Architect, not a Contractor, and i estimate residential projects based on SF, too, but it's only a very rough estimate.  a real Bid will be based on the different trades.)  be aware that in most places, a triplex is considered "Commercial" so you will have to make sure the Contractors hold a Commercial Building license (different states have different licensing categories).

finally, there are site costs that aren't factored into a PSF cost - driveways, utilities, land clearing, finish landscaping, etc.  so, having a partially complete or complete set of drawings and talking to several interested Contractors (not someone who throws you a price off the top of their head, but someone who actually takes a few weeks to review the drawings and have their subs review it, too) should be part of your evaluation, too.  good luck!

if the contractors are licensed & insured, and they don't want to get a permit when they need to, consider what else they may be skipping.  as for the 24' span, when adding the columns (1 at each side, inside the walls, and 1 mid-point), the engineer or architect should visit the house to find out what the columns sit on inside the floor, and whether that needs to be added to or beefed up, especially an older frame house.  

typically an engineer or architect has E&O insurance (ask for proof) for several years after the project (insurance not mandatory). whereas a contractor typically is required to carry builder insurance for 1 year after project completion (in some states; check with yours). if you decide not to use professionals, proceed at your own risk.

www.Nari-TampaBay.org has a list of qualified contractors, mostly in Pinellas County.  (we are a member, but not a contractor.)

Above ground termites (Drywood termites, etc) need to be killed in the house, whether tenting or injection or other means.  Subterranean termites need to be killed where they live, in the ground.

Remember that wet soil will also attract termites - so look for pipes leaking and plants/mulch that stay wet close to the building.

In Florida, a wooden building that hasn't been treated for termites recently... has termites.

North Clearwater Lowe's is out of plywood.  they still have some metal corrugated shutters left (as of Wednesday 9/6/17 morning).  i suspect similar at other stores in the area.  

our leases say that the Tenant is responsible to "batten down the hatches".  if you've purchased hurricane shutters for your Tenants, they should install them.  if you've replaced windows with impact glazed windows, be sure to inform the Tenants.  (and remind them that taping the windows doesn't work, and they are responsible for getting all the tape off later!)  

yes, in Florida, your insurance includes wind, minus the separate hurricane deductible.  however, flood insurance doesn't go into affect until 30 days after purchase.  (and historically the insurance companies will argue that the damage is covered by the other type of insurance.)  we are taking photos "before" and "after" the storm.

make sure the termite company checks which types of termites you have.  you may need to inject treatment into the ground, too, if there are subterranean termites.  these termites live in the ground at night, and every day come up into the house, even the attic, then go back into the ground again at night.

agree with Patti above.  in Florida, you can also learn from Attorney Mark Warda's books, available on Amazon and in local libraries.  after weighing your options, you can file the documents yourself, too.

probably the City, based on your cross streets.  just call and ask them what the Zoning is for the property, give them the address.  if they say anything besides Multifamily, ask what the process is to change that.  for this call, you might withhold the info that the house is already divided up. 

if the property wasn't properly divided, the Landlord probably pays the electric, water, gas, trash, etc.  don't forget to put that in your property analysis.  good luck!

1. if you found the property on the County zoning map, it is in un-incorporated Pinellas County with an address in Dunedin.  so if you talk to anyone, it would be the County.  if you are not sure, the Property Appraiser's webpage will tell you which Tax District the taxes are paid into, either City of Dunedin, or un-incorporated Dunedin Fire District area.

2. the Property Appraiser's webpage will tell you some of the Building Permits for the property.  for other permits (if un-incorporated County), research the property at www<dot>VelocityHall<dot>com.  dividing a house into 3 units would have required a permit at any point in living memory.

3. most areas require a Landlord/Rental Tax be paid.  check if the current owners are paying that.  if not, you would have to right any wrongs, including turning the property back into single family, if required.  however, some areas of City of Dunedin do allow accessory dwellings.

4. anything could be re-zoned.  you have a better chance if the property is located adjacent to a different zoning district.  some building officials will give you a verbal, un-official response before you start the re-zoning process.