All Forum Posts by: Ryan R.

Pull the refrigerator or dishwasher out and remove two tiles under them; install these where others broke. Install new closely matching tiles back under fridge or dishwasher. 

Get rich slowly; don't chase unrealistic goals and always cover the downside.  

Hey @Account Closed why don't you post some photos of some actual jobs you've done and then I'll tell you why your work isn't professional. Your website has 3 pictures of your work. Is that all you've done as a professional? 

As someone already stated, they performed the same type of repair and it was approved by a building inspector. And as I already stated, if the damage were to a larger percentage of the wall than just a few feet, I would probably recommend a different solution. 

@Tim Bishop Here's the shower before wainscoting went up. The left wall is the exterior wall. 

@Tim Bishop You're right Tim, treated isn't really proper here, but I guess it's all subjective. 

The house is pier and beam and there have been some moisture issues in the crawl space before. There was also slight termite damage here and there. And this was on an exterior wall, which has the highest grade point on the exterior of the house (lowest point to dirt). Add in that this was a shower, and it just felt good to put in treated. 

As mentioned, the treated was well dried; I sleep good at night about it. 

@Tim Bishop I did use treated on the first photos. This wood was actually well dried so it shouldn't shrink/twist too much. 

The second is an interior wall so that wood is not treated. Although I did have the whole area treated/sprayed for termites. 

@Account Closed I stand behind my designs and work. Cutting out the entire studs here isn't necessary. If it was 30' of wall damage, I'd probably recommend a different solution. 

Also, my shower and wall repair will still be performing as intended many years from now, no matter who owns the home. 

Lastly, the joints in the pictures above are not dissimilar from a header used to span doors and windows. It's the same principle; weight being transferred to a stud under it. 

Also, this load is not being supported by nails even though nails do have decent shear resistance. 

And if someone tells you to tear out wood that isn't rotten/damaged in a situation like this, be weary of their advice. The more you tear out the more problems you will run into. Replace what is visibly damaged and leave as much of the original structure intact that you can. 

Lol. It is done right. The sistered scabs are primarily for lateral support. The bottom portion of stud that is replaced is put in tightly to ensure support to the load above. 

Have you any idea what type of load it would require to collapse and or shear these joints? Not to mention the sections we are talking about make up a small percentage of the wall. 

@George P. If you are worried about the exterior sheathing, just put some liquid nails on the back of the replacement studs. The first pictures I posted are from a shower. The new shower was put in shortly after with a 3" thick concrete shower pan, walls lined with hardi and travertine tile installed. That shower and wall are still flawless 3 years later. 

Here is a similar job I did a few weeks ago. This was from termite damage. Most of this wood is just laid out, I havent secured it yet. You can see on the far left the studs are sistered with scabs once the lower portion is replaced. Also scab joints on the plate.