All Forum Posts by: Phillip Rosin

@Theresa Harris I still have about 3" to work with when using the 36" fridge and so have decided to go that route. Also, I can get 36" for a good bit less than the other sizes, since it's more common. 

@Sylvia B. I'm using Lily Ann Cabinets.

Cabinets have been ordered. 

Upon discussion with my property manager, I may just go with a 36" fridge. It will be cheaper and better for a 3/2, though it may seem a little big for the space. 

OK, so I've looked at several options and I think I have a general game plan. Everything will stay generally where it is and I will be deciding whether to move the water heater into the pass through area or not based on cost. I found a RTA cabinet supplier through which I can replace all the cabinets with solid construction/softclose/dovetail etc for $2000 with tax, delivery, etc. included. Does that seem like a reasonable choice? I doubt I could get the cheap particle board stuff for less thank 1K and I would think the better quality would hold up much better and be easier to repair, not to mention maybe help with appraisal come refi time?

The one thing I'm unsure of is refrigerator size. This photo has a 33" fridge. I could go down to 30", and gain some additional cabinet space (and save money on the fridge) or I could go up to 36" and have the fridge get just about up to where that slider opening is (this would be open box and likely cheaper actually, but I'm not sure if it would seem too imposing?) It's a 3/2 and I'm unsure how much difference going from 30 to 33/36 will make as far as attracting and retaining tenants. 

@JD Martin thanks for jumping in. Yes, electric so no hazard there. I had considered a low-boy, but they are too wide for the closet. I do have that spot mentioned where I could stick it. I just need to see what the additional labor will cost. No matter the approach everything will be done correctly. 

@Cathy Svercl it's a standard "tall" 40 gallon heater. I think it just looks big because it is in a small closet. The dimensions are typical, at around 19" diameter. 

As for adding more storage, my only option would be to lengthen the closet by about 6" to the left, move the opening over along with it, and just have more of a pocket to the right. 

As for running through the attic, I would only run the hot water, and leave the cold supply below the slab. I will have to see how much more relocation will be with all the other work that will be done taken into account. 

The in place heater does have a 1" drain pipe that goes from the pan into the wall. I'm unsure whether it runs out of the unit or into the main drain. If I relocated the heater, I would find out if I'm allowed to run it into the clothes washer drain, as it would be right next to that area. 

@Javier D. I looked into tankless and it doesn't look like my 100 amp service can support a large enough tankless unit. I will get some estimates from contractors and see where it goes I guess. My property manager says it shouldn't be a deal breaker for most renters. I suppose they could add more storage in other ways, if necessary. 

@Frank S. Why is an electric water heater is a fire hazard and why would a vent be required? There is a drain, though the pan has an extra hole, which renders it generally useless. I'll fix that either way. Are you saying leave it because it isn't worth moving and won't impact tenant retention or getting the best quality tenants?