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All Forum Posts by: Nicholas B.

Nicholas B. has started 4 posts and replied 56 times.

Post: Pay off credit cards or buy a 3 family in July?

Nicholas B.Posted
  • Finance, Credit, and Insurance
  • Northwestern, PA
  • Posts 56
  • Votes 20
Originally posted by @Roy N.:
Originally posted by @David Dachtera:

I can't, either, but the "victims" reported that when queried the banks' response was that they were too much a credit risk.

I don't make this stuff up, I just report it...

Dave:

Any chance these "victims" are simply using one revolving credit facility to pay off another and are not really lowering their utilization ratio?

 Yeah, Roy, I've done that too...Many times...With no perceivable impact. Well, other than the fact that my score jumps up briefly if one marks paid before the other reports the balance...

Post: Pay off credit cards or buy a 3 family in July?

Nicholas B.Posted
  • Finance, Credit, and Insurance
  • Northwestern, PA
  • Posts 56
  • Votes 20
Originally posted by @Roy N.:
Originally posted by @David Dachtera:
Originally posted by @Bill Gulley:

No, your credit does not take a "hit" if you payoff a CC ... 

Real world experience has proven to the contrary ever since late 2007 / early 2008. 

I routinely pay off a 4/5-figure credit card bill monthly and my credit score is still around 800.   Perhaps if you have a sudden change in behaviour - say from carrying 90% utilization and making minimum payments to paying off 90 - 100% of your balance - it might show as an event on your credit history ... but I cannot see the reasoning for such an event to adverse.

I agree. No way, no how is reducing your utilization ratio going to lower your score in and of itself. It's one of the few things that credit bureaus are actually transparent about. There's got to be something else going on. Every time I've floated a large balance then paid it off in a lump sum, it's spike my score up between 20 and 60 points depending on the utilization I was at.

Sometimes paying off an installment loan does have a negative impact, though.

Post: Mortgage Underwriting Guidelines & DTI - (@Bill Gulley)

Nicholas B.Posted
  • Finance, Credit, and Insurance
  • Northwestern, PA
  • Posts 56
  • Votes 20
Originally posted by @Shaun Weekes:

If you have a credit card that has a zero balance and the credit limit is 10,000 or whatever this will not affect your DTI.

DTI is based on payments not your debt.

Fannie Mae used to make you close your c.c. account if it was being paid off through the loan. They recently changed this and now the account doesn't need to be paid off.

Example on DTI

Mr. Jones makes 10,000 a month gross and is a wage earner. He has the following debts:

Capital one card: Balance $10,756 Payment $202

Ford Motor Credit: Balance $33,987 Payment $309

H.E.L.O.C.: Balance $90,000 Total that can be drawn $100,000 (in this case the UW will calculate the payment based on $100,000) PAYMENT 400

New First Mortgage: $200,000 Payment $1500 (Including taxes and insurance)

Total DEBT: 344, 743 Total PAYMENTS: 2,411

In this case the DTI will be 5.11/24.11 now during the refinance you don't want to use any c.c's because it could affect your DU/LP findings. This is why good loan officers tell you not to buy, co sign or use any credit cards and if you can avoid using any reserves.

Just as a side not I think DTI ( debt to income ratio ) should be changed to PTI ( payments to income ratio)

I hope this helps and I speak about this briefly in my interview on the Joe Fairless Show earlier this year. The link is on my profile.

Have a great day.  

So you're saying that for a HELOC, your experience is that the payment will be calculated as the maximum payment as if the line was maxed out? How does that work when rates are variable and payments can fluctuate? What if Prime jumps throughout the application process?

I understand that payments can vary on any variable rate loans. I think that's loosely addressed in the compliance manuals and it leaves it to the discretion of the lender as long as DTI fit on the initial application. I'm just wondering what your experience was with this?

Post: Mortgage Underwriting Guidelines & DTI - (@Bill Gulley)

Nicholas B.Posted
  • Finance, Credit, and Insurance
  • Northwestern, PA
  • Posts 56
  • Votes 20

The original topic was specific to credit card debt, but a HELOC is a good subject to bring into the discussion, Charlie.

If that's the case, doesn't it really come down to a LTV issue? The lender's not looking at what your potential payment per month may be (as in a DTI calculation), but the overall loan to value picture.

I can say that it is possible to leave a 2nd lienholder in place while refinancing the primary mortgage because I've done it. They based the loan to value on the new mortgage only. At the time, they would not let me finance in the 2nd lien because it would have put me over their max LTV, but they left it intact. To be clear, this was an installment HEL and not a line of credit, so there may be a distinction there and it may depend on the lender.

Are you saying that you do not have experience with any such problems with Credit Card availability, but you do in home equity products?

Post: Mortgage Underwriting Guidelines & DTI - (@Bill Gulley)

Nicholas B.Posted
  • Finance, Credit, and Insurance
  • Northwestern, PA
  • Posts 56
  • Votes 20

@Charlie Fitzgerald, do you have any experiences like that since Dodd Frank?

I've been told by vets in this industry that at one time it was common to demand closure of open accounts. I've only been doing this since 2008 and understand that a lot has changed since then. I've personally worked with several lenders on mortgage refinances while having well over $100,000 of available credit with no mention of it. 

I can't find any specific text in any compliance manuals addressing this. Here is CFPB's compliance guide. It covers DTI guidelines in detail , but makes no mention of available revolving credit.

Post: Mortgage Underwriting Guidelines & DTI - (@Bill Gulley)

Nicholas B.Posted
  • Finance, Credit, and Insurance
  • Northwestern, PA
  • Posts 56
  • Votes 20
Originally posted by @Russell Brazil:

Im not too sure about that exactly...but I can tell you that credit cards that do not have a limit can hurt your credit. Since there is no preset spending limit, the reported limit on your credit report will show what ever you balance is, thus it will appear that you are at 100% utilization on that card, which is not in actuality true. I had one of these cards and actually asked them to change it over to a card with a credit limit.

 Interesting, Russell. I've never came across that on thousands of bureau reports that I've seen. I personally have a couple of "flexible spending cards", but they still have limits on paper (and on my credit report). What a mess that would be otherwise, though! 

Post: Mortgage Underwriting Guidelines & DTI - (@Bill Gulley)

Nicholas B.Posted
  • Finance, Credit, and Insurance
  • Northwestern, PA
  • Posts 56
  • Votes 20
Originally posted by @Charlie Fitzgerald:

Most lenders will have you freeze the lines at whatever point your dti will cover...

 Hi Charlie, I respect that you are a Private Money Lender and rightfully have a subjective opinion. I should have clarified that I was speaking specifically of conventional lending. 

Do you have any citation of evidence of this? Or experience with conventional lenders using this method since the big credit reform after the meltdown?

Post: Pay off credit cards or buy a 3 family in July?

Nicholas B.Posted
  • Finance, Credit, and Insurance
  • Northwestern, PA
  • Posts 56
  • Votes 20
Originally posted by @Bill Gulley:

I assume the credit underwriting you do is with insurance risks, I'd agree.

You can check fannie mae underwriting, if a credit card has a zero balance, and that account is still open, half the high credit amount that had been used is used to compute debt ratios. High credit outstanding within a year, say $5,000.00,  at application it has a zero balance, say terms of that card are 3% of balance out standing, then it would be:

$2500 x 3% = $75.00 payment computed to the debt ratio.

This is because, under prudent LOAN underwriting, it is assumed if the account is open, it will be used. That is why I suggested to close accounts not used.

Lenders look at the ability to pay, not your ability to carry credit long term or create more credit. Now, the other side is the ability to carry credit is to other dealings, you have the debt and meet the obligations, like your insurance company, they don't care how much you make but they do want to see you paying everything as agreed and they don't like seeing you in a financial bind, that's an indication for making false claims. 

We're talking loans for real estate here, at least I am. :)  

 Bill, I'd like to further discuss this, but not derail this thread entirely. I started another thread in Private Lending & Conventional Mortgage Advice. I hope that you'll take the time to discuss it with me!

Here's the link: https://www.biggerpockets.com/forums/49/topics/242102-mortgage-underwriting-guidelines-and-dti---at-bill-gulley

Post: Mortgage Underwriting Guidelines & DTI - (@Bill Gulley)

Nicholas B.Posted
  • Finance, Credit, and Insurance
  • Northwestern, PA
  • Posts 56
  • Votes 20

In another thread, @Bill Gulley and I had a brief discussion on underwriting guidelines. Rather than take that thread off topic, I created this one to hopefully further the discussion. The main contention was whether a lender will consider excessive availability of revolving credit (large open credit card limits) as a negative in calculating your ability to pay or DTI.

___

Originally posted by @Bill Gulley:

I assume the credit underwriting you do is with insurance risks, I'd agree.

You can check fannie mae underwriting, if a credit card has a zero balance, and that account is still open, half the high credit amount that had been used is used to compute debt ratios. High credit outstanding within a year, say $5,000.00, at application it has a zero balance, say terms of that card are 3% of balance out standing, then it would be:

$2500 x 3% = $75.00 payment computed to the debt ratio.

This is because, under prudent LOAN underwriting, it is assumed if the account is open, it will be used. That is why I suggested to close accounts not used.

Lenders look at the ability to pay, not your ability to carry credit long term or create more credit. Now, the other side is the ability to carry credit is to other dealings, you have the debt and meet the obligations, like your insurance company, they don't care how much you make but they do want to see you paying everything as agreed and they don't like seeing you in a financial bind, that's an indication for making false claims.

We're talking loans for real estate here, at least I am. :)

___

@Bill Gulley, I hope you'll take some time to discuss this as it is of great interest to me and you seem knowledgeable in this area. To clarify, I underwrite loans and sell insurance. I don't underwrite for an insurance company.

I researched the Fannie Mae guidelines a bit since I have no experience with this type of entity. I did find a list of guidelines at: https://www.fanniemae.com/content/guide/selling/b3... titled: B3-6-02: Debt-to-Income Ratios (09/29/2015)

___

There is a specific section addressing this topic:

___

Calculating Total Monthly Obligation

The total monthly obligation is the sum of the following:

  • the monthly housing expense of the borrower's principal residence (or the qualifying payment amount if the subject mortgage loan is secured by the borrower's principal residence (see B3-6-03, Monthly Housing Expense));
  • the qualifying payment amount if the subject mortgage loan is secured by a second home or investment property (see B3-6-04, Qualifying Payment Requirements);
  • monthly payments on installment debts and other mortgage debts that extend beyond ten months;
  • monthly payments on installment debts and other mortgage debts that extend ten months or less if the payments significantly affect the borrower

Post: Pay off credit cards or buy a 3 family in July?

Nicholas B.Posted
  • Finance, Credit, and Insurance
  • Northwestern, PA
  • Posts 56
  • Votes 20
Originally posted by @Jeff G.:

Credit cards are evil.  Pay them off and as @Ben Leybovich says do it quickly.

If you are willing to sacrifice you can pay them off much sooner than you think.  

 Credit cards aren't evil. I carry $40,000 of credit card debt at less than 3% interest and a credit score around 780. How is that evil?