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All Forum Posts by: Michael Nahm

Michael Nahm has started 27 posts and replied 77 times.

Originally posted by @Todd Rasmussen:

@Michael Nahm

They also make humidity sensing fans that have automatic modes. I just wired mine to power without a switch so it is fully automated. (I do have to throw a breaker if the power ever goes out, to reset it back to the automatic mode)

For your application, I like the light switch idea. If you were worried about them turning the light switch off too soon, you could probably add a relay with a built in timer, so the fan would run for a set time after the light was turned off.

 Absolutely brilliant! Thank you.

Originally posted by @Kyle J.:

@Michael Nahm  I've dealt with this issue before.  Here's a few ideas for you (in no particular order) that should help:

- Clean/remove all the visible mold.  One product I've used previous is called Concrobium Mold Control. It comes in a spray bottle and is designed to stop/prevent/kill mold and mildew.  

- Repaint the bathroom but add a Mildewcide additive to the paint to prevent future growth of mold and mildew.

- Replace the current bathroom fan with a newer/higher CFM fan.  I really like the Panasonic Whisper fans.  They're well built and very quiet.  If they're too loud your tenant won't want to turn them on.  A work around for that is to buy a quieter fan or just wire the fan together with the light so it always comes on when the light is turned on and then the tenant doesn't have a choice.  However, there is a good reason to have them wired separately (see my next bullet point).  

- Put the fan on a timer switch so the fan can be set to run for a predetermined length of time (10, 20, 30, 60 minutes).  The advantage to this is that the fan can continue to run even after the tenant is out of the shower and continue to remove moisture from the room.

Anyway, that's just a few ideas.  None of them are expensive and if you did all of them I'm willing to bet you'd see a big improvement.  

 Thank you for those great tips! The mold is only on the ceiling, so seems as though the walls were well protected with appropriate anti-mold seals. Need to re-do the ceiling after appropriate cleanup.

I haven’t heard of Concrobium before. Will definitely get it as well as a stronger fan.


Thanks again for the spot-on pointers (no pun intended).


Thank you. There is a fan, however, a stronger one is probably going to be much better, especially since there is no way to add a window.


Also, thought I’d add that it’s not a huge and disgusting mess, only a few specks on the ceiling. Regardless, better to remedy now before it becomes a mess.

Thank you all, great advice and I’m getting it all taken care of ASAP.

Thank you, will do.

I need to get some thoughts from this great BP community on an issue.

My tenant is in a great condo I own, and has been living in it for years. I need to add that this tenant is great as well, usually quiet and hasn’t ever been late paying rent.


The condo has a full bathroom that  doesn’t have any windows, thus no real way to air it out.

A while ago, the tenant noted that mold was starting to show in the ceiling and for me to take care of it. 

Back then, I informed the tenant that it’s their responsibility to keep the bathroom door open to air it out because there is no ventilation other that a ceiling fan and to wipe it with bleach.

All had been quiet since then (it’s been about three years since the initial complaint). Now, the issue came up again.

keep in mind, I am not greedy. This tenant went in to the condo a couple hundred dollars UNDER market. I didn’t raise the rent for the first few years, yet since have been inching it up. 

Both times the tenant complained, were when a notice of renewal was sent with a tiny increase in rent (barely 2% each time). Tenant is currently paying about $350 UNDER market.

I can’t police how the tenant ventilates that bathroom, and the mold is showing on the corner of the ceiling. 


Was wondering what others think should be done and who’s responsible.


Generally, I take everything into account: credit score, employment history and length of time at current job, references and background check.

From what you wrote, the applicants’ credit score is stellar, which is key and really says a lot about an applicant’s fiscal responsibility.

If all of the other items on my screening list check out, I’d rent to him.

Originally posted by @Jim K.:

Defiant deadbolts, which is what I use on most of my properties, are twelve bucks each for double cylinder and ten bucks for single cylinder. I keep the large key ring in my backpack manpurse along with my most basic tools.

I think @Erik W. is making a good point about having screws that make it difficult for tenants to replace your locks with theirs, but all you need is a decent drill bit on a cordless drill and three minutes to get through any deadbolt. In my property class, with my limited number of properties, and since I'm my own handyman/locksmith, going through plenty of new deadbolts available at any Home Depot or Lowes makes more sense for me.

That being said, yes, I try to hold on to old deadbolts and move them to other properties, but often that's just too much work for me. My long-term tenants almost never give back two keys and they often scratch up the old deadbolts around the keyholes, which limits their reusability given how cheap new ones are.

Great tips! Thank you. 

Originally posted by @NaDean Bowles:

They are more expensive up front but the Kwikset Smartkey landlord locks are sooooo helpful and very much worth it.  Change locks between every tenant.  

Thank you, great and useful information. 

Originally posted by @Melinda Miller:

We keep a stock of locks and simply rotate. Out with the old, in with the older. 

Yes , with every turnover. 

5 minutes. Zero dollars. 


Love it, well done!