All Forum Posts by: Michael Clanton

@Kevin Polite, I would probably run it by your contractor first, especially if they are someone you already know or have used in the past, and trust their professional opinion. It could be that the contractor has had enough experience in recent years as far as what an engineer would require in a scenario similar to yours, and could base a fairly accurate preliminary estimate off of that. That way, you would have a better idea if the project would be within your budget or not before calling an engineer out.

@Justin McDaniel, I recently had a similar experience with some HVAC contractors in the area. However, they were quoting a new heat pump (3 ton, I think) and ductwork replacement on a 1500 sf. house for around $7500-$8000. I checked around a little and wound up using Love Plumbing and Air Conditioning out of Monroe. They were a little less than $6000, and they did pretty good work. I'll include a link to their website. If you call them, ask for Chris Pressley. 

http://www.plumbingacmonroe.com/

Good luck!

Hi @Kevin Polite, you could probably spend anywhere from $5000 to $8000 for this, and possibly more, depending on the complexity of the layout of the existing area and how the new vaulted/cathedral ceiling will be framed in. You will be creating new point loads under each end of the new beam, so you will more than likely have to install new masonry piers and footings at those areas under the house. You'll probably want to get a structural engineer to make sure it is possible to remove the existing ceiling joists so as not to put too much lateral pressure on the exterior walls, and recommend footing sizes and depths for the piers. Here's an example of lateral pressure below: 

Hope that helps!

Hi Eddy, as long as the windows you're pricing at HD are true "replacement" windows, (not "new installation") and the measurements your contractor gave you don't have installation room allowed already (meaning the measurements he/she gave you is already smaller than the opening of the window for installation/insulation purposes), they should work fine. The widths could be a little bit tight, but with a little effort, they should go in. I would verify with your contractor and make sure he/she agrees. Any gaps around the window should be filled with insulation and covered with a small piece of wood trim to complete the installation. 

Hope this helps! 

The concrete quote isn't astronomically high - based on what I can see from the picture, you may be able to get the job done for as low as $1000. (in my area, anyway)  This repair will typically be done over two days (4-6 hours tear out/prep, 4-6 hours pour/finish).

The soffit repair quote does seem excessive. Like you, I wouldn't think the repair would take longer than 8 hours for a couple of qualified metal trim/roofing installers. However, since this is a commercial building, the soffit is likely a metal material rather than the vinyl material sold at Lowe's, so the material cost will probably be higher. I don't have very much experience in commercial costruction, but I would definately get a few more quotes on this. Between the two repairs I would think you should be able to get the work done for at least $1000 less than the quoted amounts.

Congratulations! It turned out great!

Like Hugh suggested, you should be able to purchase decorative pre-finished end panels from your cabinet dealer and install on the outside of the cabinet. There should be a little lip or reveal edge along where the frame on the front of the cabinet meets the side wall, so when you install the 3/16" end panel it will wind up being flush (no lip or reveal). 

To give you an idea, here is a link for a full 4x8 sheet of finished cabinet grade plywood you could use -

http://www.shoprtacabinets.com/andover-cherry-rta-...

Then, I would probably just use the remaining plywood that wasn't used on the outside, flip it around backwards, cut it, and install it on the inside up to the bottom shelf. If you didn't like the color difference on the inside, you could always install the wood-like "wallpaper" from the box stores that looks similar to the inside finish. 

The product in the link above is listed as 1/4" thickness, so you may want to check and make sure it wouldn't be too thick for your application on the outside of the cabinet.

Good luck!

@Graham Rushing, I've driven past this place several times recently. I don't know anything about them, but thought I'd share it with you since it's located on Hwy. 29/601 not too far from you. They may have some "remnants" at a discounted price.

http://concordmonument.us/services/counter-tops/

Hi @La'Raelle Muller, when I can, I like using all wood cabinets because of their better durability and resistance to water damage. However, they are can be a little more expensive, depending on where you purchase. In my area Surplus Warehouse has a decent selection of all wood cabinets that are pretty good quality, so that is where I usually go. I'm not sure if they're in your area, but here is a link to their website.

https://surplus-warehouse.com/

Also, we recently purchased some online for the first time from Lily Ann Cabinets, and were very happy with the quality of the finish and construction. These are RTA (ready to assemble) cabinets, however, so you will have to have them delivered to a location that a large truck can access, and put them together yourself (wall and base cabinets without drawers take about 10 minutes each, assembling drawers and installing them in the cabinet can take 30-45 min. per cabinet. ) Here is their website.

http://www.lilyanncabinets.com/

Good luck!

Hi @Paulus Anglada,

If you are wanting RTA cabinets that the dealer will assemble for you, check out Surplus Warehouse. You can get some pretty nice all wood (no particle board) cabinets there; they usually have 3 or 4 styles in stock pre-assembled, and they also have 6-8 more choices that you can order that usually come RTA and they will assemble them for you if you wish, for a small fee. (can't remember how much, maybe $15-$20 each?) They have locations nearest you in Charlotte, Columbia SC, and Spartanburg SC.

Here is a link to their website -

https://surplus-warehouse.com/

Another choice is Lily Ann Cabinets. I've used them recently, and was very happy with the quality (also no particle board) and pricing of their cabinets. To my knowledge, however, they only offer online ordering, so you have to assemble them yourself AND have (or use) an address that a large box truck or tractor trailer can make deliveries to. 

Here is their website -

http://www.lilyanncabinets.com/

Hope this helps!