All Forum Posts by: Meryl McElwain

@Jeremy Clark

I took a look at this. I think I may be able to find you some books. Which license are you trying to get specifically? It looks like there are a few different types.

@Steven Lowe

Hey thanks. I'm trying to keep up with all these questions. I'll catch up on my answers tomorrow.

Have a good night!

@Rena Barron

Did you pay him already or how much money are you out?

@E.S. Burrell

Electrical Panel first.

Furnace and water heater doesnt really matter unless the furnace is being upgraded from a chimney to a high efficiency which will change it to a pvc vent. If that's the case ask the hvac guy if he'll vent it for you. If he will it doesnt matter. If he won't then plumber first so he cant vent your furnace.

@Jeremy Clark

Is there a test you need to take? Or is this just a set of books you need to learn the skills?

@Ed Mayo

If you're going to GC it yourself you'll need a concrete contractor. You can just pick up the phone and call companies in your area.

For example when you call:

Hi my name is Ed Mayo. I have a residential project on the north side of Savannah, Georgia and I need a concrete contractor, who can I send then plans to at your shop?

Lisa from concrete shop:

Sure Ed. You can send then to John he does all the estimating. His email address is. John @concrete.com

John will usually call you back and ask more questions after he gets your plans. When do you want to start? He'll clarify and ask questions he had where your architect wasnt specific enough.

In Chicago, John will never call you back because John is incredibly busy with the work he already has. If you dont get a call back just keep calling. Trades are very very busy right now. They're not returning your call because of that most not because there is an issue with you or because they dont want to do your work.

Eventually John will give you a number. Concrete guys are tough and they usually run hand and hand with an excavator partner. They cant pour until you've dug. Georgia will have a different construction format than Chicago because of the weather and soil. I dont know know the rules regarding depth of pour out there.

Here a 2800 sq ft pour 42 inches deep which is below the frost line on 1 floor would be 80 to 90k foundation plus excavation. Which is a lot but I dont usually see 2800 sq ft on 1 floor either.

Hope this helps.

@Chelsea Trumbull

It's totally dependent on where you live. Your city or village hall will do it for you. On something like this most people wont pull a permit and it wont matter. But I would advise to just get a permit if a permit is required. Your city can tell you.

If you are:

1. moving or creating load bearing walls

2. Moving or adding electrical

Always get a permit.

In the situation hes describing, hes not creating or moving shear walls. He might be moving adding electrical.

If you get a permit you have the protection of an inspection if your jurisdiction does one. The electrician will have to provide his license to your municipality which also protects you. They're often bonded with the municipality.

I think one of the biggest things is your ability to sell it later. It varies but for example where I am in Chicago-If you do minor work here with no permit it's not a huge deal. Do major work with no permit and you could have a hard time selling it. If they find out you did any kind of work with no permit they can make you rip it out. How often does that happen? Not too often but I dont want to be the one it happens to. I've seen guys build whole houses without a permit and not get caught and I've also seen guys add a porch and have to rip the whole thing down at their cost plus pay fines. It's just not worth it. A permit like this for a dining room is 40 bucks. There probably isn't an inspection and then you have proof you complied.

You just get a permit.

@Brian Pulaski

I thought a little more about this and it depends on where you are in the country but carpentry might be a little high at 1000. Trades have a thing where they wont come out for less than a certain number. A drywall crew isnt going to mobilize for less than a grand. My general rule of thumb is if the whole thing is less than a thousand you probably just have to find a handyman.

@Eric Mayer

2500 bucks if you go straight to the subs. 1000 for the carpenters. 1000 for drywallers. 500 in material depending on who buys it.

If you have to add an interior door or add a switch for the light in the new room add 200 for the interior door. Add 150-200 for the switch.

If you're hiring painters add 400.

If have more details I can fill it in.

@Robert Muzyka

Anytime. There are other weird things to look for as I think of them I'll post.