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All Forum Posts by: Matt R.

Matt R. has started 16 posts and replied 478 times.

Originally posted by @Crystal Dundas:

Do both units have to have gas?

I don't think there is anything to stop you from having electric heat in one unit and gas in the other.

The only thing I can think of is that if you have gas heat anywhere in the property, you might want to put CO detectors in *both* units.  The building code or rental property code might require this; your friendly local building inspector or code department can advise.

If you think you might eventually run gas to both units, you should tell the gas company that when they install the meter for the first unit.  They can put in a manifold for two meters, install one meter, and just plug the extra hole in the manifold.  Later on, when you install the gas pipe inside the second unit, they can come out again and hang the meter faster, without having to shut off the existing meter.

If both units have ductwork installed already, it might be worth asking the HVAC company if you can get a better deal by buying two furnaces at once.  For sure they won't object to installing two furnaces on the same day, or installing two furnaces one day apart.  You *might* be able to get them to bite on you paying for two furnaces and one installation now, getting one furnace installed now, and then paying for the second installation in a month or two and getting the other furnace installed then, if that helps your cash flow or budget.

All,

The city of Kansas City, Missouri is proposing new short-term rental regulations, aimed at things like AirBnB.  I made a post about it in the short-term rental forum; look there for more details.

I don't have any rental property in KC, MO, but I know it's popular among out-of-state landlords, so I figured I'd pass this on.

Matt R.

All,

The city of Kansas City, Missouri is proposing new short-term rental regulations.  Here is the city blog post about the ordinance.  I *think* you're meant to provide feedback by replying to the blog post; comments are open from 30 days from 11 February to about 11 March 2016.  The text of the proposed ordinance is available.  Essentially, for multi-family the owner of the property is allowed to do short-term rentals of the unit they live in, but the tenants aren't allowed to rent out their units. There is a restriction that the owner has to have lived in their unit for 60 days before short-term renting it, and it can only be short-term rented for 90 or 91 days a year.  This local TV news story also claims that there's a $600 permit needed.

I don't have any rental property in KC, MO, but I know it's popular among out-of-state landlords, so I figured I'd pass this on.

Matt R.

Hello all!

If you manage and maintain your own properties, what spare parts do you stock?

What I have in mind are things that might make the house "unlivable", or parts that can be used to at least make the house safe overnight until you can call a pro to fix it completely in the morning (during the week) or on Monday (on the weekend). Or, things to make it at least functional until you can go to the store and get a better item - like, the tenant breaks the nice pendant light over the dining room table, so you install one of those $10 dome fixtures on the ceiling so they can see, and then go get a replacement pendant fixture on the weekend and install it.

Some things, like toilet valves, outlets, switch plates, etc can always be obtained at Wal-Mart, 24 hours a day. But sometimes it might be nice to get whatever it is from your personal stash and go right over to the property, rather than having to go to the store first.

There is also a tradeoff between paying for and storing hundreds of dollars worth of stuff you might not need, vs having to get a hotel for the tenant or paying for a pro to come out and fix it. Some of this stuff you might eventually use when turning the place for a new tenant.

Here is what I can think of so far. I'm not sure if I actually need things marked with a question mark. Additions and comments are welcome.  (Yes, one of the potential comments is "this is why you hire a handyman". :D )

Exterior
- Duct tape and plastic sheeting (temporary fix for cracked window panes)
- Tarp, 2x4s, and nails? (temporary roof repair after high winds or tree limbs)
- Tube of caulk, caulking gun
- Plywood and 2x4s for board-up of busted windows?
- One cheap exterior doorknob set?

Interior, general
- Duct tape or other tape (temporarily sticking down a loose floor tile or laminate flooring, many other things)
- Drywall screws, small nails (loose sheetrock or trim)

Electrical
- Outlet and switch plates (maybe just one each of all the kinds the house has)
- One or two regular outlets
- One GFCI outlet
- One regular switch
- One three-way switch (if the house has any)
- Cheap interior ceiling light fixture (if the tenant manages to break one)?
- Spare fuses (if equipped), including "big" ones for A/C, stove, etc.
- One 15A or 20A circuit breaker?

Plumbing
(Some of this depends on if you have more than one bathroom or not... if you just have one, it's more critical that it works.)
- Faucet washers (if equipped)
- Faucet cartridge valve (if equipped)?
- One or two caps for each thread size in the house
- Sink/toilet shutoff valve
- One faucet flex line (the longest size the house needs)
- Complete set of toilet guts - water valve, flapper
- Rubber washer for Fluidmaster toilet valve (if equipped)
- Toilet flex line?
- Toilet seat?
- Cheap bathroom faucet?
- Washing machine shutoff valve (if equipped)?
- Drain pipe washers/gaskets
- New P-trap (kitchen size, bath size)?
- Water heater thermocouple (if equipped)
- Water heater temperature/pressure valve?
- Water heater drain valve?
- Washing machine supply hose (if you provide the machine)?

HVAC
- Furnace filter
- Furnace thermocouple (if equipped)
- Furnace ignitor (if equipped)
- Furnace blower start/run capacitor (if equipped)?
- Outside A/C start capacitor (if equipped)?
- Replacement vent grille(s)? (The house I am buying has a return grille in the floor)

Thanks!

Matt R.

Disclaimer: I am not an HVAC professional, and I am very new to being a landlord.

In the short term, education may help.  I have seen other landlords here post that if it's too hot inside, some tenants will open the window instead of turning down the furnace.  Yes, even in the winter time.

Since you already have air ducts in the house, I'd tend to agree with your gas furnace idea.  If you know that there is already a gas main in that street, it shouldn't be too expensive to get a line to the house and a meter.  If it's an existing house that you're converting from electric heat, sometimes the gas company covers part of the cost of putting the line in from the street to the house.

If there isn't a gas main on that street, but there is one on the corner or otherwise nearby, it might be a little more expensive.  If that is the case, talk to the owners of adjacent properties about splitting the cost of running the main down the street - they may be ready to cut down their electric bills, too.

For the gas furnace itself, you can get them in different efficiency levels - how much of the gas they turn into useful heat in the house.  Right now, the cheapest kind you can buy are 80% efficient.  The next step up is about 90%, and they go all the way up to about 97%.  The more efficient ones cost more to buy, but are cheaper to run.

The 80% furnace will need a metal flue that goes outside.  This is a piece of double-walled sheet metal pipe that is fairly large outside diameter, like 8" or so.  It doesn't *have* to go straight up from the basement to the roof - it can go up, turn and run horizontally for a while, then turn and go up again - but finding a space for it in an existing house can be a challenge.

The 90% and up furnaces can be vented to the outside with PVC drain pipe.  The pipe size depends on how big of a furnace you have and how many twists and turns are in the pipe, but usually, around a 3" pipe will do it.  Sometimes it's easier to find a place to put a 3" PVC pipe than an 8" metal pipe.  Often this pipe can go through the side wall of the house, rather than having to run all the way up to the roof.  If it goes through the side wall, there are rules about how far away it has to be from doors, windows, etc.

The more efficient furnaces also need a fresh air pipe that comes from outside.  This is the same size PVC pipe as the exhaust.  It is often installed next to the exhaust pipe, but I don't think this is a requirement... if the furnace is in the basement, you can do things like have the fresh air pipe come in through the basement wall, and have the exhaust pipe go up through the house and out of the roof.

If you have a big, open, basement, some installers will skip the fresh air pipe and just let the furnace draw air from inside the basement.  My personal feeling is that this is a bad idea, and in some places it might be prohibited by the building code.  PVC pipe is pretty cheap and easy to install.

A 90% and up furnace will also need a drain line for the *furnace* - they pull enough heat out of the exhaust that the water vapor condenses out and doesn't go up the flue.  This isn't a very big deal... if the furnace is in the basement, it's usually something like a 3/4" PVC pipe running to a floor drain in the basement.  It doesn't have to be plumbed in like a sink; the end of the pipe from the furnace just sits on top of the floor drain and water drips out of the pipe into the drain.  If you also have central air conditioning, the furnace installer can plumb the inside air conditioner drain (A-coil drain) and the furnace drain into the same pipe.

Sometimes there are federal, state, or local rebates or tax credits for adding insulation.  Your electric or gas utility will probably know about them, as will people that install insulation.  Sometimes adding insulation will let you use the next smaller size gas furnace, which helps offset some of the cost of the insulation.

Unless you know the wiring in the house is tip-top, I don't know if I would go with space heaters as a fix.  They pull a *lot* of juice and are good at finding bad connections inside the wall.  People are also not good at keeping blankets, curtains, etc off of them.

I hope this helps!

Post: Ask me your electrical questions!

Matt R.Posted
  • Blue Springs, MO
  • Posts 481
  • Votes 313

@Robert P.

Disclaimer: I am not a professional electrician.

The big question for your situation: does the fan also have a heater in it, or is it just a fan?

If it has a heater in it, the heater is probably on its own circuit, and it may not be a good idea to combine the heater and the light onto one switch.

In *theory*, you could combine a heater and a light with a double-pole switch - this is essentially two "regular" single pole switches with a common handle.  It would keep the heater and light circuits separate, but allow you to control both of them at once.  I don't know if this is acceptable under the electrical code, though.  I found one reference online that says it isn't (see http://ecmweb.com/content/code-quandaries-42 ), so I am hesitant to recommend it as a D-I-Y.

If it's just a fan, most bathroom fans I have ever seen only take a few dozen watts, so combining it with the light is probably OK.  If there is only one hot wire or feed wire coming into the box with both switches - in other words, both the fan and the light are powered from the same circuit breaker - then I'm sure it's fine to do this.

If there are two hot wires or feed wires coming into the box with both switches - in other words, the fan and light are powered from separate circuit breakers - then it gets trickier and possibly not acceptable under the electrical code, *I think*.

An alternative, if you are worried about people forgetting to turn the fan off, is to install a timer switch for the fan; you set the timer for however long you want and the fan runs for that amount of time and then shuts off.  For a bathroom fan, get a timer that has 30 or 60 minutes maximum.  The simplest kind to install is the mechanical spring-wound kind; it has two terminals, just like a regular toggle switch, and it fits the same mounting holes as a regular toggle switch.  You can also get digital timers - some of these need a white wire (neutral wire) in the outlet box and some don't.

One drawback to a timer switch is that the body of the switch - the part that sits inside the outlet box - tends to be physically large.  If you have a smaller outlet box in the wall, or lots of wires and wire nuts in there already, it may be hard to make the timer fit in the box.

Post: I'm horrible at Accounting!!

Matt R.Posted
  • Blue Springs, MO
  • Posts 481
  • Votes 313

@Russell M.

I would be interesting in seeing the chart of accounts and the spreadsheet you mentioned, if you would be willing to share.

I am just getting started with one property, so I have an Excel spreadsheet with three lines in it. But in a few weeks I will be having some really expensive days at Home Depot, so I figure I should get something better in place before then.  :)

Thanks!

Post: Looking for GnuCash users

Matt R.Posted
  • Blue Springs, MO
  • Posts 481
  • Votes 313

@Matt Kowske

I know this is an old thread, but are you still using GnuCash?  Do you like it?  How do you have it set up?

I am just getting started with one property, so I have an Excel spreadsheet with three lines in it.  But in a few weeks I will be having some really expensive days at Home Depot, so I figure I should get something better in place before then.

Thanks!

Post: giving up house with reverse mortgage but needs furnace

Matt R.Posted
  • Blue Springs, MO
  • Posts 481
  • Votes 313

Ask around and see if you can find an HVAC contractor willing to install a used furnace.  Some will flat-out say no and some will listen to why you want to do that.  You may have more luck with the smaller one-man type shops than the big ones that have a dozen techs and a nice office.

Depending on what kind of furnace you have now, and how much room there is, you might be able to leave the old furnace right where it is.  Put the new furnace next to it, and have the HVAC tech swap over the electric, gas/oil pipe, flue pipe, and water lines or ducts (use flex duct rather than having sheet metal bent).  Run it for a few months, then have the tech swap the connections back to the old furnace and remove the new one.

There is also a type of furnace called a "packaged unit", that is designed to live outdoors.  They are more common down South but you might be able to get one in RI.  Basically you plop down a big metal box next to the house that has both a gas furnace and electric A/C in it, and two big holes in the side for the supply and return ducts.  Have the HVAC tech hook up electricity, gas, and the ducts and you're in business.  For two or three months, you might be able to get away with the supply and return ducts going through a window or other existing opening in the side of the house (attic gable vent?), assuming that doesn't give the building inspector a heart attack.

Post: Painting huge rock fireplace

Matt R.Posted
  • Blue Springs, MO
  • Posts 481
  • Votes 313

Even though it's 1974 in there... I kinda like it!  :D  I especially enjoy the little storage? area to the right of the fireplace, with the stained-glass doors.

Here's a weird idea.  Put RGB LED strip lights on the top and bottom of the mantle, aimed to shine up and down along the rock.  Bright white might be good to lighten up the fireplace a little, but you can always turn the knob for a different look.  Maybe put a piece of quarter-round or so along the room edge of the mantle to hide the LED strips from view.

Maybe, instead of the strip lights, LED cans in the ceiling above the fireplace, but you sort of need two sets so the mantle doesn't cast a big shadow downwards.

You might be able to go up into the attic and look down into the room, using the gaps around the chimney/flue.  Maybe put a webcam on a stick and work it into the cavity behind that wall to see what you have.  You can also take video on your phone, but be 5000% sure that the rope or whatever you have tied to your phone won't come off... if you drop your phone into the wall, you *will* be doing some demo to get it back.  :)