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All Forum Posts by: Brian Stephens

Brian Stephens has started 0 posts and replied 11 times.

Post: First multifamily deal closed today!

Brian StephensPosted
  • Building Performance Consultant
  • Stockton, Ca
  • Posts 11
  • Votes 11

Well done...Congrats !

Post: The Power of Bigger Pockets

Brian StephensPosted
  • Building Performance Consultant
  • Stockton, Ca
  • Posts 11
  • Votes 11

Nice work, each of you, on the project.

It inspires us all when we can read success

stories.  ...& a shout out for the KW family !

cheers

Post: Changing Offer After Contract Termination?

Brian StephensPosted
  • Building Performance Consultant
  • Stockton, Ca
  • Posts 11
  • Votes 11

It sounds that you are ready for this property, cool, do you know WHY the seller is motivated?  An offer that includes "subject to inspections" is a good idea, as @Simon Campbell  suggests.  With the $1K adjustment on your offer, windows are expensive and the process of installing them can involve more material and labor than initially intended.   Best of luck with the deal, please keep us posted about the progress.  

Post: Going out to see a 4plex

Brian StephensPosted
  • Building Performance Consultant
  • Stockton, Ca
  • Posts 11
  • Votes 11

Best of luck Alesha!

Please keep us all posted on your discoveries.

Post: The Basics of Real Estate Investment Deal Analysis

Brian StephensPosted
  • Building Performance Consultant
  • Stockton, Ca
  • Posts 11
  • Votes 11

Really enjoyed the read.  The article was able to organize the analysis into smaller steps & with a clearer picture of the details, the decision process becomes more streamlined.  Well done and thank you. 

Post: Lead Based Paint

Brian StephensPosted
  • Building Performance Consultant
  • Stockton, Ca
  • Posts 11
  • Votes 11

Lead paint is a concern for sure, considering the age of the building. 

Built in 1880, you mention it was renovated & I would be curious how many times.

In part, this is in jest, however, a concern would be with the various building materials, throughout the years, specifically those including asbestos.  

Good Luck with your investments...cheers

Post: The New BiggerPockets is Here!

Brian StephensPosted
  • Building Performance Consultant
  • Stockton, Ca
  • Posts 11
  • Votes 11

Just made the switch to the new site & excited

 to continue learning/enjoying/sharing with BP

Post: Using Energy Efficiency as a Strategy

Brian StephensPosted
  • Building Performance Consultant
  • Stockton, Ca
  • Posts 11
  • Votes 11

@ Roy

Great stuff.

Please do post your results concerning the Joseph Lstiburek's air gap. Your intention to air seal/insulate, leave a gap & complete the insulation process is sound and I am curious about the results.

As I become more directly involved with my own projects, I would like to convert from traditional batt insulation, to applying the spray foam material. It does make better sense. In the future, I may be asking you about your experiences and for advice, if that would be o.k.?

Thank you for sharing.

Post: Using Energy Efficiency as a Strategy

Brian StephensPosted
  • Building Performance Consultant
  • Stockton, Ca
  • Posts 11
  • Votes 11

Roy, thanks for your response.

Working my way back up your list:

Agreed, insulate all the water pipes.

The post, concerning the ground cover, was not explained well on my part. There are many homes here on slab foundations, and so "yes" the floors to insulate are above a crawlspace. You refer to a wrap sheet, I actually meant "ground cover" as in setting on the ground to control the moisture from the soil. The netting or rods would be used to hold the batt insulation from the effects of gravity. Your use of rigid foam and/or spray foam, I would think, are better materials than the commonly used R-13 faced batt. Here, in the Bay Area of California, I have yet to see foam applied, although I like the idea of it better. A common problem, besides gravity, is that rodents like to get up and into the batt floor insulation. That would be eliminated with the foam board & spray.

As to the "Joseph Lstiburek air gap" between the floor and rigid foam insulation, it does make sense although I am in agreement with you on both, conductive heat loss is slowed, not stopped and I would also be suspect of condensation with a gap. This is an intriguing idea though.

When I wrote about air sealing, I too should have included the plumbing/electrical penetrations in the crawlspace, as in the attic. This would be satisfied with spray foam insulation.

Again, thanks for your reply as I really enjoy Building Science and am interested in your practical applications and experiences.

Cheers

Post: Using Energy Efficiency as a Strategy

Brian StephensPosted
  • Building Performance Consultant
  • Stockton, Ca
  • Posts 11
  • Votes 11

This is a great topic. Having inspected hundreds of homes during energy efficiency audits, what I have seen is a lack of air sealing & under/no insulation.

The "Bang for your Buck" improvements usually are:

1: Add more insulation in the attic, it can be stacked on top of existing insulation. Install "wind baffles" & batt insulation near the soffits(4-5'). Loose fill is recommended because batt insulation stacked onto existing insulation can create gaps, causing the insulation performance to drop.

1a. Maybe this should be 1 but...air seal, using low expanding and/or full expanding foam, all plumbing & electrical penetrations before blowing in the loose fill insulation. There is some air sealing with the addition of loose fill insulation, yet this method will ensure an effective performance.

2: The HVAC duct system & registers have to be air sealed. All the joints should be coated with mastik. This includes the return plenum(s), boot structures & if sheet metal tubes are used instead of flex duct, these seams need mastik as well. Generally, if the insulation on the tubing looks "dirty" it is because the conditioned air is flowing out of the ductwork.

2a. Use low expanding foam between the boot & the floor/wall/ceiling & metal tape from the inside of the boot, wrapping up onto floor/wall/ceiling enough to seal but covered by the grill for a clean finish.

2b. Insulate the outside of the boot when air seal is completed; when not located within a chase/soffit arrangement. Increase the R-value of insulation on the ductwork.

3. Insulate the floor, when accessible. Be sure to use a netting or rods to keep gravity from dropping the batts to the ground. This will cause a wicking effect which would be bad, then finish with a polyethylene (plastic) ground cover.

4. Weather strip and install door sweeps. Weather strip attic & crawlspace hatches. Weather strip any access hatch that is between conditioned & unconditioned space ( as Roy N. properly labeled the "building envelope")

5. (Re)seal windows, especially single pane. *note* Replacing windows is the last thing because they are the most expensive, especially when your R-value increase is only 2-3. It may be recommended, not as an energy efficiency strategy but as a "sound proofing solution" for a noisy area.

6. Insulate every hot water pipe that you can touch. Recirculating pumps, depending on the length of the run(s), can add performance benefits.

7. Air seal the can lights, as they are very "leaky". It is important (fire hazard) to first change the bulbs to cfl/led for lower wattage & less heat. The cost of the bulbs is why this is the last recommendation.

These improvements can be made with or without replacing the furnace system and will increase the performance of the house, improve the indoor air quality (IAQ) and create a more comfortable living space. These are great selling points and may be what separates this home from another.

Happy investing...