All Forum Posts by: Sam M.

 Thank you for the tip. 

Currently own a residential property with 2 homes on 5 city lots. One of the homes was a mother in law apartment built on to the back of the detached garage. Current zoning is R1 

Was looking into dividing the property and selling the homes individually. City says lots need to be 75 X140 to be considered buildable lots but if I divide it into 2 I’d have a 65X125 and a 75X125. 
Any ideas on how I could go about dividing this? Rezoning? It’s a small town so I might be able to meet with the city but maybe I should talk to an attorney first. 
Was active on here years ago and my last post was 13 years ago. I’ve done  4 flips in the last 6 years and working on my 5th 

Thanks! I took it a few years back while driving through the Swan range not too far from me.

Anyone have a link to the thread mentioned?

Recent REO listing 98 DOM description as follows:

Great Bank Owned Home in West Valley Pines. 5 Bedrooms, 4 Bathrooms, vaulted ceilings, mature fruit trees. Nicely landscaped yard in the pines. Very nice neighborhood in West Valley, minutes to town. Bank of America Prequalification required on all offers. Free appraisal and credit report if buyer finances through Bank of America Home Loans.

Do they have a right to require BOA prequalification? I guess since they own the property they can put whatever stipulations they want on the sale but this is the first I have seen of this in my area.
I guess it is not new as found in the note at the end of page 1 in this document. http://www.reosandshortsales.com/uploads/REO_agent_instructions_1-25-10.pdf

It looks to me like most of the issue is in the fly rafter (barge rafter or sub-fascia) from your picture it looks like is has a bad upward bow. Since this is your reference point it makes any sag look that much worse.
If it is framed like they frame things around here a slight sag in the second truss will translate to a rise in the fascia if the framer doesn't care about straight lines.

BTW,
It is very hard to tell from just one picture :)

I just checked and it looks as though you are in Missouri. Likely it is just rafters and not trusses. This is likely just a rafter or 2 that bowed after install or were put in with a downward bow when the rest of them were either straight or with an upward bow. Shouldn't be a big deal structurally. It just looks bad.

You can try but last I heard from the big boys Fannie won't sell unless you offer par.

For vinyl siding it is absolutely necessary to "stage" your windows properly as there will always be some water getting behind the siding and it will show up over time.
The best practice in siding is to use a "rain screen" technique to provide an additional protection against water and allow proper drainage behind the siding. This method is used in a lot of high moisture areas behind wood, stucco, cement board or brick siding. The idea is to provide a space for water to drain off the back of the siding without ever coming into contact with the structure as well as allowing air movement vertically to dry out the siding.
A synthetic version is made by GreenGaurd and you can check it out here: http://greenguard.pactiv.com/ProductFiles/PRODUCT-DOWNLOADS/Product-Sheets/PS_DC14.pdf

Their main site is: http://greenguard.pactiv.com/productliterature.aspx

What kind of siding is being used? In what region are you building?

IMO, windows and doors must always have flashing installed. That said, the flange of a vinyl window will suffice if the siding is installed directly against the window. If trim is used the top of the trim must be flashed as well. It is not good enough just to tape the window in place if water can get in behind the trim.

House wrap is NOT a water barrier. It water is allowed to get to the house wrap it has gone too far already.