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All Forum Posts by: Jacob Lindgren

Jacob Lindgren has started 5 posts and replied 13 times.

Quote from @Jonathan Klemm:

Hey @Jacob Lindgren - For sure direct mail is NOT illegal in Illinois.  Here in Chicago, it's one of the tried and true strategies of the big wholesalers.

Tons of businesses do it all the time...peoples addresses is public record and you can send them anything you want.  Now if you were to start calling or texting that is a different story because you do need to ensure they are NOT on the do not call list.

Consider connecting with a very real estate-specific attorney....happy to provide you with some local referrals if that would help.

You do need to have your real estate license to wholesale more than one property per year though so please be aware of that...I'd just get your license if you don't already have it.


 Thank you Jonathan, I would be happy to take your referrals. I’m glad to hear they are used regularly. I had a hard time just taking my attorneys advice.

Quote from @Edgar U.:

Some states like SC, ID, and maybe others I'm missing are non-solicitation states; However, I know some investors who still send letters. I haven't heard anything from IL.

I would just use a biz phone #, virtual mailbox, etc. 

I agree. I have a biz phone number i would be providing.

I apologize for the clickbait, but it does encapsulate my anxiety. 

My plan: 

Drive around my target area.

Write down addresses of homes I would be interested in (unkept yard, abandoned, etc.)

Send one hand written letter that simply states that I would be interested in purchasing their home and to let me know if they would be interested. I planned to give my first name and phone number. I also planned to note in the letter that I would only be sending one letter to be respectful. I would not be making any promises to the potential seller such as price or a guarantee offer.  

The issue:

I thought this was the a run-of-the-mill plan and had no anxiety about it. I then considered that I don't want to do it without speaking to my attorney in case there are any harassment laws I could be tripping over. 

The discussion with my attorney didn't go well. They just said it's better not to do it. They didn't state a specific reason not to do it, just that you don't want to open yourself up to potential harassment issues. I want to take sound advice and not just ask around until I get the answer I'm looking for. That being said this strategy is pretty run of the mill in RE investment circles so I have a hard time thinking its a bad idea.

What do you guys suggest? I would hope one hand written letter would not cause me a headache.

Thank you in advance.

Quote from @Jim Reynante:

Here's are a few things to consider when participating in a sheriffs sale/auction for real estate:

Tax Trouble: When someone doesn't pay their property taxes for a while, the local government can put a lien on the property, which is like a claim to the property.

Public Auction: The Sheriff's sale is like a public sale where anyone can try to buy these properties. They usually happen in a public place like the county courthouse.

Minimum Price: The starting price for these properties is the total amount of unpaid property taxes, penalties, interest, and other costs. This is called the minimum bid.

Bidding War: People who want the property bid on it, and the one who offers the most money wins. It can get competitive. In your scenario that you describes, there was no other bidders... which is a huge plus for you!

Owner: If you win the auction and pay the highest bid, you get a legal document called a Sheriff's deed. This means you now own the property, but there might still be other debts on it.

Redemption: In some counties, the old property owner has a little time after the sale to pay what they owe and get their property back. If they do, you get your money back plus some extra (e.g., interest, penalty fees). Please keep this in mind, do not make any upgrades on the property until AFTER the redemption period expiration. For example, let's say the redemption period for a property you won at auction is 6 months. Now during the 5th month, you decided to put a new roof on the property. Then, the original owner redeems the property after 5 month and 28 days have passed. The original owner get the property back, you get your original purchase price amount back plus the interest and penalties that were collected. But what about the $20k you spent for the roof? Unfortunately, that is a sunk cost and you lose out.

Risks and Homework: These auctions can be tricky, so you need to research the property to know if it's a good buy. Look into the property's condition, its history, and any other problems.

Rules and Laws: The rules for these sales can be different depending on where you are. Make sure you follow the rules and get legal advice if you need it.

So, Sheriff's sales can be a way to buy properties at lower prices, but you have to do your homework and be aware of the rules and risks. It's a bit like a competitive auction for houses with tax problems.


 Excellent breakdown. I really appreciate the help.

Hello all,

This morning I went to a sheriff's auction at my local courthouse. My only intention was to go and sit in the back to get an understanding of how the process worked. When I showed up I was the only person there other than the bank's rep and the court deputy that held the auction. I didn't purchase the property but I did feel as though I found a new avenue for deal hunting in my small town that seems mostly overlooked by my fellow land lords. 

I understand the basics of how the auction works and have a couple contacts in my area but I know there is a lot I could still learn. The process in my town is 10% down at the time of the auction and the remaining 90% in 24 hours. I also understand that I am buying the property sight unseen (aside from driving by) and that does come with its risks. My question to you all is what reading materials / podcast episodes should I be looking into to gain more knowledge or a general strategy? 

Thank you in advance for your input.

Investment Info:

Single-family residence buy & hold investment.

Purchase price: $68,000
Cash invested: $13,205

3 Bed, 1 Bath. great location with appreciation. Purchased undervalue and has great CoC ROI. Turnaround from receiving the keys to receiving the deposit was 24 days.

What made you interested in investing in this type of deal?

Seller was off market and very motivated. Was easy to negotiate with.

How did you find this deal and how did you negotiate it?

Friend of a friend. I negotiated directly with the seller. I was transparent with my offer and my intention. We got along very well and both parties left the closing satisfied.

How did you finance this deal?

20-year Mortgage. 15% down.

How did you add value to the deal?

The most value was gained during the offer negotiation. The repairs needed on the property were mostly cosmetic and I did all the work myself.

What was the outcome?

The initial purchase price was $85,000. I negotiated to $68,000 with prorated RE taxes.

Lessons learned? Challenges?

Positive lesson, trust your gut and the numbers. A year ago I would not have offered aggressively because I would be worried about upsetting him. When I explained where I was coming from, there was no anger or confusion from the seller. After he sat on my offer for a couple weeks he was ready to move forward. A negative lesson, make sure to get quotes from multiple sources for each expense. I believe I am paying too much for insurance. I could have spent more time on that.

Did you work with any real estate professionals (agents, lenders, etc.) that you'd recommend to others?

I have an excellent team. But I am in a small town so I will provide their info if requested.

Post: Utilities in the 'grey-zone'

Jacob LindgrenPosted
  • Posts 13
  • Votes 2

@Jeff Copeland It would be nice if someone wanted to swoop in and pay them! Thank you for the information. LSA will be something I can bring up when having the conversations.

Post: Utilities in the 'grey-zone'

Jacob LindgrenPosted
  • Posts 13
  • Votes 2

Hello everyone,

I am closing on my first rental property the first week of next month. The property is in an area with moderate to high demand for rentals. The property also only needs minor updates and a couple appliances to be move in ready. I should be able to get it ready within 30-days for showings.


My question is, what is the most effective way to handle the utilities of the property for those 30 days? Is the simple solution of setting everything up in my name and then cancelling everything the only option? Are there any tips on how to reduce confusion on this process with the utility companies?


Any insight would be appreciated.


Thank you!

Quote from @Drew Sygit:

@Jacob Lindgren here's what we send out clients:

Purchase Agreement Clauses for Buying Tenant-Occupied Rental

If you’re considering buying a tenant occupied rental property, there are some documents you want to acquire for review prior to
the closing. Once the closing takes place, the seller has zero incentive to cooperate with supplying them.

Not only do you want to obtain these documents, you also want time to review them well before the closing because unfortunately,
there’s always the potential that one, or several, of the documents may be fraudulent.

So, let’s go over each document and why it’s important:

1. Lease: this one should be obvious. A lease is a contract between the landlord and tenant. It spells out the monthly rent,
when it’s due, the length of the lease (or term), should contain clauses required by the federal and state governments, and
much more. Without the lease a buyer has no legal means to collect rent from a tenant or evict them for nonpayment.
2. Rent Ledger: this is a record of all tenant charges and payments. It proves if the tenant is current on their rent and their
history of whether they’ve paid on time or not. It should also show any security deposit collected, pet fees, cleaning fees
etc.
3. Tenant Contact Information: current phone number and email address are needed to be able to communicate with tenants.
4. Tenant(s) Government Issued ID: typically, this will be a driver’s license to prove the identity of the tenant(s). Without, you
have no way of confirming the occupants of the property are those named on the lease. Proper identification of tenants is
also needed if you want any chance of having local code enforcement write tickets against the tenant and not the owner.
5. Any Legal Action Documents: you’ll definitely want to know if the current landlord is evicting or suing the current tenant(s).
6. Tenant(s) Social Security Number: this should have been obtained by the current landlord to do a background check during
the application process. A new owner will need it if they want to pursue collection and garnishment for unpaid rent and/or
property damages.
7. Tenant(s) Employment & Bank Information: additional information useful for garnishment actions to collect unpaid rent
and/or property damages. Usually collected as part of the application process.

Fraud: let’s not pretend it doesn’t happen. Desperate sellers do desperate things. We’ve seen fake leases and rent ledgers, even fake
tenants - who were placed by the seller to backup the fake lease and ledger. So. it’s not uncommon to request proof of rent deposits
via bank statements and corporate/LLC tax returns. Of course, it can be almost impossible to validate any rents the seller claims they
collected in cash. So, sellers can also be asked to sign notarized affidavits personally guaranteeing the validity of leases and ledgers.

So now, let’s get to the clause to include on your purchase agreement to make sure you get all this information in enough time to
review it.

Seller(s) agrees to provide the following to the buyer within X days of buyer’s satisfactory inspection, but in any case at least
X days before closing: All rental leases, rent ledgers, tenant(s) valid phone numbers and email addresses, rental applications
& supporting tenant identification, income and asset information, any documents corresponding to any ongoing legal
actions pertaining to the property, leases, service contracts, etc., at least three (3) months of the most recent bank
statements for any account(s) rental funds were paid into and any company or corporate tax returns for proof of income and
expenses. Seller(s) also agree to sign an affidavit at closing personally guaranteeing the validity of all leases and rent
ledgers.

Now that may seem like a lot for a seller to agree to, but if they have nothing to hide, why would they not agree?

As always, none of this should be construed as legal advice and we recommend you consult a real estate attorney.


 These are excellent points. I really appreciate you taking the time to provide this.

Quote from @Nathan Gesner:

@Garrett Christensen nailed it and I have nothing to add.

As for rent increase, don't tie yourself to any number. Wait and see what the market is doing and then get it to market rate, or within 5% of it. Don't throw away money just because it cash flows already.


 Good point, I shouldn't pick a % without considering the market around me. Thank you Nathan.