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All Forum Posts by: Evan Swanson

Evan Swanson has started 9 posts and replied 25 times.

Quote from @Samuel Eddinger:

@Evan Swanson - I own quite a bit of real estate in and around Middletown, CT (the area you are analyzing). My take on underwriting is to never believe the numbers given to you. I could be wrong but I don't believe that property is a 6.5 CAP (at that price) when you consider all the areas that should be put in underwriting guidelines. I am extremely conservative with my underwriting which is why I am not buying in this market.

Does your underwriting include, CAPEX, vacancy, bad debt, property management, etc? If not, like everyone else buying in this market you are going to lose. I'd be happy to talk about this if you want to DM me.


 Hey Sam. Just sent you a connect invite. 

When underwriting properties, I look for a 5-year ROI of >100% and an IRR of >12% (screenshot below of how those are defined). Please let me know if this is off-base.

I am familiar with valuing companies, and I think these are the minimum returns needed when compared to alternative investments like the stock market. 

Should I be paying more attention to CoC return?

Below is a picture of a duplex I evaluated. The CoC is terrible. But the 5-year ROI and IRR look okay.

My goal is to hold the property long-term. 

Please help! 

ROI

Well, in % terms 10% shows a greater return but in absolute dollars 20% shows a better return. So that part is still cloudy for me. Any more thoughts on that? 

But I see what you mean by comparing money not invested to the mortgage rate. 

If I decided on a 10% DP and and not 20%, saving $25,000 on the DP, then the cost of withholding 25,000 of equity is an additional 25,000 of debt at 6.7% interest ($1675/year). So, unless I can find a place where that $25,000 will produce me more than $1675/year (6.7%), just include it in the DP. 

If that money just sat in the bank or wasn't invested at a better rate (other business or rehab resulting in material increase in home value), then I just took on more debt and interest for no reason. 

If the total profit of selling the property is far more than the negative cash flow at the start, then it would be worth it, even if just held for 3-4 years.

Here's how BP calculates "annualized return" to help explain the numbers on the chart: 

Annualized Total Return: This figure is the return on investment that you made on the money needed to do the deal, averaged over the length that you owned the property. It is computed by taking the Total Profit If Sold and dividing it by the cash you put into the deal. Finally, that number is divided by the number of years you held the property for to get an annualized amount.

Quote from @Chris Seveney:

@Evan Swanson

Can you share the numbers with 20% down?

Quote from @Chris Seveney:

@Evan Swanson

What’s your interest rate compared to what are you going to do with that money? If it is having you save 6% interest to go into a bank account that gets 0.1% then yes it makes sense

It’s also what is your level of risk if the property drops in value - do you still have that cash to recover?

Like 99.999% of questions on BP - it depends but I would say yes your better typically putting more down when rates are higher if you do not need that cash for other things


When I run the #s, the 10% DP has a higher annualized return than the 20% DP. So I was leaning towards putting the least amount down even though there's less cash flow? I'm having trouble understanding how CoC and equity and annualized return relate to the DP

Quote from @Dave E.:

@Evan Swanson for me it is about what your plan is and what the numbers look like when you move out and on to your next property. If your plan is just to save some money while you are living there, then sell it in a couple years, then put down as little as possible. If your plan is to keep the property and rent out the extra unit when you move out, then you may have to put more down so that the numbers work. It is all about the numbers!


 Thanks for feedback. 

Right now I'm focusing on my business and want to start house hacking. Not looking to be super aggressive with buying properties near term. Buying a new primary residence every 2 years and keeping the old ones to rent out. 

House hacking teachers commonly say "put 3.5 to 5% down" and rent out the other side. 

But if you're able to put in a 20% down payment, should you? 

When people model cash flow is it assumed that 20% down payments are used? 

I look at many houses that cash flow well with 20% DP but not a 5% DP. 

Is it possible to receive an FHA 203(k) loan as an additional loan to your mortgage? For example, only take out 3,000-5,000 to replace kitchen appliances in a multi-family.

CT offers a CHFA program for first-time homebuyers which allows you to finance your downpayment at 1% loan and then receive a below-average market rate for your home mortgage. Interested in a 203(k) loan but probably wouldn't abandon this option if FHA 203(k) isn't available as another small loan.

Post: Is the 50% Rule still doable?

Evan SwansonPosted
  • Posts 25
  • Votes 14
Quote from @Jeffrey Renfroe:

Hey Evan, are you looking at cash floor once you run the numbers or just to see if your "rule of thumb" is right?


 Hi Jeffrey, thanks for the question. What do you mean by cash floor? I am using the rule to screen properties.