Skip to content
×
Pro Members Get
Full Access!
Get off the sidelines and take action in real estate investing with BiggerPockets Pro. Our comprehensive suite of tools and resources minimize mistakes, support informed decisions, and propel you to success.
Advanced networking features
Market and Deal Finder tools
Property analysis calculators
Landlord Command Center
ANNUAL Save 54%
$32.50 /mo
$390 billed annualy
MONTHLY
$69 /mo
billed monthly
7 day free trial. Cancel anytime
×
Try Pro Features for Free
Start your 7 day free trial. Pick markets, find deals, analyze and manage properties.
All Forum Categories
All Forum Categories
Followed Discussions
Followed Categories
Followed People
Followed Locations
Market News & Data
General Info
Real Estate Strategies
Landlording & Rental Properties
Real Estate Professionals
Financial, Tax, & Legal
Real Estate Classifieds
Reviews & Feedback

All Forum Posts by: Eron A.

Eron A. has started 19 posts and replied 86 times.

Post: House Hacking or House Flopping?

Eron A.Posted
  • Posts 88
  • Votes 43

It depends.

If you make enough money....and can still stack up......having a property that does not cashflow, MIGHT WORK. BUT....I wouldnt do it.

I like properties that will cashflow at least $500, AND...have potential to go much higher.

This last property I got.....has about 7 rooms in it, and will have 4 bathrooms when Im done. PI=$1100, T=$250, I=$250....and I plan to rent these rooms for $500 each min. There are issues with this, however. But point is, if I rent out 3 rooms here, Ill take care of my PITI.

Post: Which type of contractors for these issues?

Eron A.Posted
  • Posts 88
  • Votes 43

These are important:

1. basement has water leaking into it in 2 areas. contractors tell me its coming from the footer and getting in. i dont quite believe it. i have 2 plans to figure this out. im going to dig a deep hole outside....about 2 inches wide...as deep as i can...and see the standing water is. ive also thought about getting someone to drill into my concrete blocks inside of my basement to see if water is setting in the blocks. WHO COULD HELP WITH DIGGING MY DEEP 2INCH HOLE and FINDING HOW WATER IS GETTING INTO MY WALLS? a brick mason? foundation company(seems they just want to fix stuff but not prove where the water is coming in)?  
2. i want to make sure my floors are level on my main floor(the one above my basement). WHO WOLD I NEED FOR THIS? a framer?
3. i need advice on how to best make the interior of this old house look nice and modern. WHO WOULD I NEED FOR THIS? interior decorator/designer?

These are not so important:

4. my garage has the same roof/ceiling that my main house uses. i want to remove the attic area from my attached garage so there will be more space. WHO WOULD I NEED FOR THIS? a framer?
5. my driveway needs to be flattened a bit. WHO WOULD I NEED FOR THIS? landscaper? grader guy? 

I know this might be a lot, but any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

flood zones....too old....

and i want to say underground basement moisture and mold issues. but kinda on the fence w/that one.

I am doing my basement reno, and I have created some plans...partially. I am only a regular person, so I am missing lots of info involving code, where the best place to put lighting fixtures, how to design/modify plumbing, etc.

Things I need: 1) to know best place to put electrical wiring, etc 2) to know the best place to put plumbing, etc 3) how to situate everything in bathroom and kitchen area... 4) advice period

Would a residential architect handle these things? Is there anyone else I could look to that might be cheaper? A designer?

Quote from @Russell W.:

So you have concrete block walls, not concrete walls. Big difference. Concrete block walls are extremely porous. Not at all surprised you have high humidity; the hydrostatic pressure is forcing moisture through the pours of the block, past the interior cell (even if not fully grouted) and out the pours of the interior face. Hard to tell from the pictures but I think the variation in color we're seeing in #2, 3, 4 is the moisture? If this had been built correctly, then the exterior face of the blocks would have been coated with a fluid applied waterproofing to seal the blocks. Seems like this may not have been the case, but you can't know without some excavating. This can be accomplished from the interior as well, however it's more effective preventing moisture from coming in (exterior), rather than holding moisture back (interior).


been trying hard to avoid excavating. and remember now......there is a span of wall that is nice and clear...and not too cracked up. so whether or not they waterproofed or not........that span of concrete blocks are relatively undamaged. it doesnt make sense that they would waterproof that span, and not the other span.

so this is why i think i can just cover the damaged span of concrete blocks with a porch or something so that water wouldnt get to the span of exterior wall. id actually probably use plastic tarp in the beginning, so i could uncover that area during days of sun in hopes that any moisture inside the dirt would evaporate. when it rains, id cover up that area again with a huge plastic tarp.

i would also improve the grading, and well the downspouts are already good.

i could also do a french drain type thing...but i dont think that would be necessary.

im really trying to avoid excavating. i dont want to pay $25K lool. i already have mold issues on interior joists that will need to be blasted off...and these joists are 30ft long and there are probably 50 of them going across the basement. and yesterday i was looking at some studs...and i think i mightve seen some mold on those too. super annoying, man.

Quote from @Theresa Harris:

Is water actually getting in to the basement?

The patio is probably graded away from the house, so it diverts the water away from the wall.  

I agree with Ed. Start with the easy stuff that will take you a bit of time, but not a lot of money.  Extending downpipes, making sure the gutters are clean, seeing where water is pooling. 


 Ok. Ill start w the easy stuff. Might have to cancel my e100 order. Im kinda anxious to go head and get this fixed so i can finish the basement. Thats the thing. Trying smaller things takes time...waiting for rain, etc. I plant to rent out my basement so..the longer i wait, the more $ i dont make.

Quote from @Russell W.:

You mention you have humidity in the basement, but not water intrusion. Humidity in a basement is very common. Are you actually seeing water pooling on the floor, at or near the walls? Also very common for basements is settlement cracks in foundation walls (concrete cracks, this is normal). Are these small, hairline cracks? Or are they wide, deep cracks? If the latter, the question is then- how old is the property? These could be settlement cracks from years ago. What you really need to find out is whether or not they're still active, if the foundation is still settling/moving. Without knowing that I wouldn't go any further with attempting any other fixes. It may turn out to be entirely unnecessary. Assuming you don't have water in the basement, a much cheaper fix: $100 dehumidifier. 


 No water pooling at all. Basement looks dry. I truly can only assume where the moisture is coming from. I have hygrometers in a few different places trying to locate. Foundation walls have cracks and theres a huge gap in the floor to the right side of basement. Needs to be filled w something...but not cement. Over time pests have ate away at the filler, im guessing.

ill post pics of actual walls in a few hours. 1966 is house build year.

See, no idea when they happened. I need a $1500 dehumidifier, imo. Ordered a e100 aprilaire one from crawlspace ninja a hour ago. I have 2 $250 ones down there now. 😀😅😫.

Will post pics in a few.

So, I have a basement that has cracked walls, and there is humidity in the basement.

I got quotes from a few different companies. Quotes were in the area of $10-25K to waterproof the basement.

But I noticed something a day or 2 ago. Not all of my underground basement walls are cracked, broken, and ugly looking. They are relatively in good condition for about half of the wall. I finally figured out why. The good condition section of wall is under a brick porch area that is probably about 30x4ft. The cracked span of wall is covered up only by grass. I really dont want to pay $10K...let alone $25K to take the pain off my walls and lower the humidity.

So, my question is...do you think that extending the concrete porch so that its above the other span of wall....would help and maybe resolve my issue?

I could still do carbon straps on my walls for $8K, just incase they want to bow in the future....but...from everything I can see....this would be the best and cheapest solution. I also though about extending my roof a bit.

BTW, I do know about other solutions such as...fixing the grade, underground waterproofing, interior drains, weep holes, dehumidifiers, etc. Ive done lots of research. 

Another solution Ive strongly considered is...installing a french drain some 4ft below grade, and then extending my roof out a bit. I actually think this might be a pretty good solution, but not cheap as just extending the porch area.

Thanks in advance.

Thanks everyone. Yeah, it looks like for the most part, each area has 1 air return and 1 air register in it...with the exception of areas like the laundry room, bathroom, basement, etc.

To be built in 1966, I think they did a lot of things right.