All Forum Posts by: Don Meinke

While we are at it.  The ‘bottom’ also acts as a freeze plug.  Say you went on a 3 week vacation and temps were zero every day.  The bottom is designed to crack and relieve pressure from frozen pipes.  You would still have broken split pipes.  But the meter bottom would be replaced by the city and accompanied by a bill.  It does happen.  End of meter 101!

Chances are it’s owned by water dept.  I always heard meters NEVER run fast, only run slower with age.  If they replace it , it may result in higher water bill.  If it isn’t leaking I would let it be.  If it is clicking slightly it means you have a water leak.  Most generally the stool flapper or fill valve running over the overflow.  About every month you should take your finger and rub around flapper and where it sets/ seals. A leak test would be to turn water off to stool and not use for several hours, leave tank lid off and see if water level stays same on the tube after many hours.  If it does not the stool is silent stealing your water.  Does not take much to add to big bucks.

Best thing you can do is put a water meter in it if you don’t already.  If they send meter reading every month you can tell if there are sneaky water leaks, like toilet flappers that leak by.  Or several severe faucet leaks.  That wrecks systems faster than  anything.

First you MUST permanently cure the moisture issue.

That starts outside with fill dirt around the house.  6 inches higher against foundation tapered out for 2 feet.  Then rest of lot graded so Zero puddles even after a fast 2 “ rain.

Then downspouts getting ALL Exhaust water at least 5 feet.

If you still have any moisture inside you may need interior drain tile and a sump pump around complete perimeter walls

THEN think of Rebuilding walls in correct way with moisture barrier and air space.

Solve some questions first to determine best fix.

Why did you cut out drywall?  Broken pipe? Occasional flood of lowland?

How do you know their is no rot above?  Why not jerk rest off to make new match easier and faster?

Put ground contact green treated if replacing bottom plate.  Jerk top off and replace using blue studs full length.  
I would use roxel  insulation if any chance of moisture again

How do you know the wall left of this one isn’t same shape?

Or framed all different if that is in a basement

No to letting it drip inside and having it evaporate.

I am not clear here,  there are 3 hvac systems?  Where are the other two drained?  And was this installed previous to your owning this?


Don’t you still have access to the ash dump door at the bottom in the basement?  Old chimney pipe holes?


Chimneys usually have space alongside them,  maybe you can fishtape in a drain pipe there.

You have to make this better somehow

First you need to determine what is actively using this chimney? If their are furnaces Can they be switched to PVC vented?  Water heaters to power vents or electric?

I had a chimney that had 5’ of bat guano in the bottom.  Every rain it acted like a rain gauge and it got wet and stunk.  Had no use for it since furnace was HE PVC vented now and wh electric.  Took bricks off one by one ALL the way to under the concrete basement floor.  Made closet bigger with space and eliminated a costly and reoccurring hole in the roof.  I hate chimneys as a HUGE energy drain.  All winter it is wide open.  Do you let windows open all winter?   

  I would take out wet carpet and leave tile till you determine if it is wet and leaking.  They make moisture testers if you need one.  Could also check if rental stores have them?  Maybe the flashing has now cured the leak. (WE HOPE).  Check after EVERY rain cause leaks are tricky and wind direction sensitive.  If it is raining inside and draining out research a better top that is rainproof.

Eliminating chimneys is a long term goal, preventing leaks a short term immediate need.  Repairs ONLY after perm fixed.

If you get some brackets called roof jacks that take 2 x 6 or larger planks as toeholds along with a harness and tied off to big tree or pickup hitch.

  I saw a guy tie his off to top rail of chain link fence.  DONT DO THAT, top rail flies off with upward pull, plus just thin tubing that will bend when you don’t want it too

Be safe and make sure your attic is vented right so you don’t “cook” the new shingles.  If you can install continuous soffit vents, rafter baffles, and ridge vent.

No need to get fancy.  Take all hardware and shelves out if removable.  Dull the finish with steel wool.  Prime, paint white, use a sprayer and put a clear laquer for a hard chip resistant surface.  Or put new soft close hardware on and update pulls if needed.  Guess forgot to say give them 3 coats of the white enamel paint

going to have to cover and tape off all areas close that can get misted.  Plastic off doorways and floors also.  If you know someone that paints cars, hire him or learn yourself by doing.  If you get runs slightly sand and start over on white coats.  It’s bright white and clean, always looks good.  Same way with old dinged dirty and banged with age doors and trim in whole house.

The size of the pieces when all apart vs size of egress doorways determines how small of pieces my sledge hammer has to make them.

You could try a Craig’s list ad but watch for bad apples.

My guess is , heavy clothes, goggles, and face mask AND a big hammer are in your future.  Does it have the big cast radiators  in every room also?  In the OLD days cast was the top dollar scrap price by far.

Any asbestos in this system?