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All Forum Posts by: David M.

David M. has started 11 posts and replied 61 times.

Post: Opportunity Zones - new potential PERMANENT tax savings?

David M.Posted
  • Investor
  • Cincinnati, OH
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 35

Sounds like previously owning rental property in an OZ (which I do) doesn't benefit from this at all, even if we improve it substantially. Is that correct?

Post: Help With Understanding Capital Expenditure Depreciation

David M.Posted
  • Investor
  • Cincinnati, OH
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 35
Originally posted by @Ashish Acharya:

@David M.

No silly questions. Trust me, depreciation is not easy. Still struggle after Masters degree, CPA, CFP, and years of experience.

You are right, the roof is half way depreciated. 2k. 

Yes you would continue to depreciate the old roof, so you still get the benefit of your investment. You could also dispose the old roof and take the deduction in that year  rather than taking depreciation over remaining years. It’s called partial disposition with complicated rules.

I have a bachelor's in business and do my own general ledger for the rental portfolio, but I work full-time as a teacher, so all the tax intricacies can throw me for a loop. Trying to figure out when I can quit teaching and manage/grow the portfolio full time, but one major impediment to having enough free cash flow to pay the bills is having to pay out of pocket for the capital expenditures but not being able to recoup that expense in the same year as a deduction. In a year with lots of capital expenditures, taxes could eat significantly into the profits I need to take home.

I suppose it averages out in the long-run, since I'm writing off that depreciation in years where I don't have as many capital expenditures, but it makes it difficult to plan and make the jump full-time.

Thanks for the information. It was very helpful.

Post: Help With Understanding Capital Expenditure Depreciation

David M.Posted
  • Investor
  • Cincinnati, OH
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 35
Originally posted by @Ashish Acharya:
Originally posted by @David M.:

Hello, all.

I generally let my accountant do his thing, but I try to understand the ins and outs of taxes for my own benefit as well. I understand the concept of depreciation on a home over 27.5 years as an expense that has to be repaid, assuming the property doesn't lose an equivalent amount of value over that time (depreciation recapture). However, I'm struggling to wrap my mind around the idea that I have to depreciate, for example, a roof over 27.5 years.  If I sell the property 10 years after putting on a new roof, I miss out on claiming 17.5 years of that cost, or more than 2/3 of that cost. If my rental doesn't appreciate ( generally, mine don't; we buy in working class areas for cash flow), am I just out the difference between what I wrote off as depreciation, and what I paid in up-front cost to replace the roof?

This would be so much simpler if I could just write off the cost of the roof as an expense and deduct it in one year. Sigh.

 Look at what @Paul Allen said. 

Let’s say you had a roof replacement: 10k

Two scenarios: 

1) sold after full depreciation of roof. 

Market value: 100k

Basis: 50k ( just building)

Gain: 50k. 

2) sold with half depreciation: 

Market value: 100k

Basis: 55k ( 5k of basis of roof has not been depreciated) 

Gain: 45k 

So you basically got the remaining  entire deduction on the year of sale. 

Depreciation matches revenue with expense, it’s called matching principle in accounting. It is a hassle but is very logical.

Let us know if you have any questions. 

This is very helpful, thanks. So say I bought a house for 50k, and the building is worth 40k. Fast forward 13 years, and I'm halfway through depreciating the structure, so my basis is 20k.  I add a roof that costs 4k.  My basis is bumped up to 24k.  If I sell in another 13 years, the house is completely depreciated, but I have a 2k basis because the roof is only halfway depreciated. Does that sound right?

What happens if I have to replace the roof before the 27 year depreciation schedule for the roof is finished? Do I continue depreciating the old roof even if it's been replaced?

Sorry if these are silly questions.

Post: Help With Understanding Capital Expenditure Depreciation

David M.Posted
  • Investor
  • Cincinnati, OH
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 35

Hello, all.

I generally let my accountant do his thing, but I try to understand the ins and outs of taxes for my own benefit as well. I understand the concept of depreciation on a home over 27.5 years as an expense that has to be repaid, assuming the property doesn't lose an equivalent amount of value over that time (depreciation recapture). However, I'm struggling to wrap my mind around the idea that I have to depreciate, for example, a roof over 27.5 years.  If I sell the property 10 years after putting on a new roof, I miss out on claiming 17.5 years of that cost, or more than 2/3 of that cost. If my rental doesn't appreciate ( generally, mine don't; we buy in working class areas for cash flow), am I just out the difference between what I wrote off as depreciation, and what I paid in up-front cost to replace the roof?

This would be so much simpler if I could just write off the cost of the roof as an expense and deduct it in one year. Sigh.

Originally posted by @Ben Leybovich:
Originally posted by @Randy E.:
Originally posted by @Mike H.:

@Ben Leybovich

Would you take 30 of those homes if you could own them free and clear? 

at cash flow.... ... And maybe you need to seriously consider dumping that sucker and getting out of that price range. Its clearly not for you.

 I think this is the point.  Some of the investors here have outgrown low-cost low-yield investment properties.  In the same way a middle-aged professional might feel he has outgrown the 10-year-old subcompact he drove (and loved) when he first graduated college and took his first job at the bottom.  Today, that professional is driving a BMW or Lexus and when he sees someone driving a 10-year-old subcompact, he shakes his head and pities the poor fool who can't do any better than to drive that decrepit junk.

There's nothing wrong with an old reliable car, and in reality, there's nothing wrong with inexpensive investment properties.  Each has its place in the grand scheme of things, but each is not a fit for everybody.  

Just as Ben and Owen should no longer own $30K houses that rent for $700, I should not start going out and running the numbers on 200-unit apartment complexes.  That's not my niche.  And cheap houses aren't right for Ben.

 Randy - you are missing the point entirely. You call them "low cost yield property". What I am saying; what Serge is saying; what Joel is saying - there is NO yield in low cost property over the long term. There is no appreciation. And, the CF is only on paper... What we are saying, and have been saying, is that a $30,000 - $50,000 at $700 rent just doesn't work in the long term as a hold...:)

30 years of experience says otherwise.

Originally posted by @Ben Leybovich:
Originally posted by @Sharad M.:

Ben, newer houses cost a lot more money and you will have negative cash flow on them to begin.

I agree that higher priced rentals attract better tenants but if this happened in a newer house, more expensive stuff will be damaged.

We are having extreme weather and that's all. Things happen and it's important to deal with them. There is no need for knee jerk reaction. 

 Sharad  -this is not a knee jerk reaction. I've been telling anyone who will listen for 2 years now not to buy PIGS in Mid-West. I've not bought any in years - because I learned...

Cah Flow is not sustainable in a pig. And there is no appreciation. So why bother...?!

We have more than one hundred of these SFH in the $20k-$50k, $650-$775 rent in the Midwest that say otherwise, but they take a special kind of landlord and additional attention.

Post: CRIMINALS ARE NOW A PROTECTED CLASS?

David M.Posted
  • Investor
  • Cincinnati, OH
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 35

Committing a crime in the past makes someone a criminal now? Interesting.

Based on the OP, I don't see this being a level-headed, rational discussion. I could be wrong, of course.

Post: Best Vinyl Plank Flooring Value

David M.Posted
  • Investor
  • Cincinnati, OH
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 35
Originally posted by @DL Martin:
Originally posted by @David M.:

Any tips? Also, an unrelated item: where is the best place to post on the forums to get referrals for reliable handymen in the Cincinnati, Ohio area? Thanks!

Floor and Decor has a great selection on that vinyl planking. Plus, they frequently have "close outs" which would probably suit your needs perfectly.  Address: 3430 Highland Ave, Cincinnati, OH 45213

good luck

DL

OP here. Good advice from everyone. I'm checking out the Floor and Decor website right now.  I've got a flooring contractor who is pushing a Comtec vinyl flooring system (click together) at $3.50 a square foot. That's more than I want to do for a 2/3 BR, 1 BA that rents for $675 a month.  He claims it's 20 mils, but I'm wondering if he means 20 millimeters thick vs. the wear layer on the top? I've not seen any vinyl plank flooring products that have a 20 mil wear layer, but I may not be looking in the right place.

I'm between these two products (unless someone knows something about the Comtec product that I don't):

http://www.menards.com/main/flooring-rugs/vinyl-fl...

Does the 3 mm thickness refer to the wear? Am I mixing up the different numbers when it comes to flooring? I hear "mils" and "mm" frequently. Are they actually referring to two different things? This one comes out to $1.70 per square foot. I'm probably going to pay him about $2.00 per square foot to install (does that sound about right?)

The other choice:

https://www.flooranddecor.com/lvp-laminate/smoked-...

The two have similar thicknesses. I'm not seeing anything about wear. Are all vinyls inlaid all the way through the product now instead of just being imprinted on top, making the "wear thickness" irrelevant?

I know I"m all over the place. I'm looking to take on more of our family's portfolio in the coming years and really want to do the work up front to get places tenant-proof while still looking relatively attractive and clean for the working-class demographic we target.

This is exactly why politics don't belong here...

Post: Best Vinyl Plank Flooring Value

David M.Posted
  • Investor
  • Cincinnati, OH
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 35

Replacing the nasty carpet in my C-D neighborhood 3 BR, 2 BA single-family house. Rents for $675, and we got into it for $20k, so I'm not looking for luxury vinyl flooring. I do, however, want something that will be durable for multiple moves, pets, kids, etc. I'm worried that the Allure vinyl flooring with the grip strips (instead of click-locking systems) may not hold up as well over time. 

Any tips? Also, an unrelated item: where is the best place to post on the forums to get referrals for reliable handymen in the Cincinnati, Ohio area? Thanks!