All Forum Posts by: Darwin Crawford

@Michelle Masters - the right way to do those floors is with a 3-step coating.  The roma property was the one I learned on, out of necessity, because the "installer" I hired did a totally $**t job.  

So I hauled my sorry self out to APF, made friends with their tech supervisor, who used to be an installer, and have done 3 of them since.  I no longer hire this out, because its pretty easy to do, and most guys are slobs and leave you with a crap floor you have to re-do anyway.  

On a rental, you want the 100 series as a primer, the 400 series as the middle coat, and the Poly100 as the top coat.  That is what's used in hospitals, prisons, commercial kitchens, etc.  The process isn't hard, you just have to be a real stickler for prep and cleanliness, and you're ok.  Grind all concrete with a diamond wheel, don't use the acid etch.  There is a widget that goes on a shop-vac that will attach to the grinder and catch almost all the dust. 

If i were flipping again, I'd just 2-coat the floor with the 400 series and be done with it.  Most retail buyers aren't hard on flooring, but tenants are another story.  

And @Chris Mason - great info on the B/bugs, and I absolutely agree - having the tenant "in your court" is vital!

Used to sell that stuff - got out of the business 2 years ago to do RE investing.  

CL is good to find it, there are a LOT of vendors around ohio, indiana, etc.  Chicago too.  

DO NOT, under ANY circumstances, put ANY barnwood in your house that hasn't been kiln dried.  It contains bugs, chemicals, mold spores, etc.  If some jack-leg at the yard is telling you "its OK, its been inside forever" he is full of ***t.  I've got plenty of horror stories if you'd like.  

If you want to take the DIY method for it, bring it home, stack it with little boards in between it for airflow, tarp it and set off 3-4 bug bombs under the tarp.  leave it for the weekend.  

Out west, market price is about $3/SF, or more if you're a "harry home-owner"

I used IKEA on my last 2 kitchens.  They work well, with some caveats.  

1) If you don't do the computer layout at the store, there WILL be a problem.  Ask me how I know this....

2) the hardware at ikea for cabinets (drawer pulls, etc) is not the best, and needs some patience and tweaking, but can give you a really, really cool look for a lot less than custom.  

3) if and when someone tears through the outer laminate (plastic) layer on them, water will destroy them in no time (think under-sink leak)

Unsure on gas submetering, but on electric, I have used the Kill-A-Watt with great success.  Available online and can tie into your phone for monitoring.  

@Jassem A. - just out of curiosity, why do you need that much laminate?  This is more of a philosophical question, but I was in the lumber business for 8 years, and I am curious as to why you want to spend your money on such a product.  

Laminate in general is an inferior product, made with toxic chemicals, in an irresponsible manor, and doesn't hold up well at all in a rental/tenant environment.  It requires frequent replacing, results in a lot of landfill waste, and worst of all, sends production and money overseas.  

There are viable alternative products for lower end and multi-family housing, especially when you consider the cost of labor to replace that stuff, and the social cost of financially supporting a terribly wasteful and toxic industry.  

I get that we all need to save money on projects, but after 15+ years in the construction industry, I'll be the first to tell you that trying to save a nickel to have to spend a dollar later is a losing proposition.  

Hi,

Couldn't get the link to work, but I'll plan on stopping in.  I live right in old town so its close.  Do I need to fill something out in order to get in the door?

You can do that, as long as you are a homeowner.  In my (limited) experience around PHX, when you go to sell it, if you as the owner did the work, any retail buyer is going to wet their pants, and ask for about 3 inspections, and a mountain of other documentation.  

if you permit everything, and are good at the work, you should be fine.  from a legal standpoint, you can even wire and plumb your own house, as long as it passes code and inspection.  However, from a flip perspective, when asking retail for a house, be prepared for a lot of "worried housewife drama".

Marvin - it can be removed, yes.  Once you clean the place (including the ducts), an ozone generator can be used to neutralize smoke.  they work really well, but usually require a few treatments.  

The last condo I bought was a smokers place, and I bought an inexpensive ozone generator off amazon.com.  You cannot be in the house while doing ozone treatments, it'll make your sinuses burn.  It took about 3-4 treatments and its done.  

Benjamin is right, all soft surface items like carpets and blinds are trash.  

@Tawny Bloom - the pipe clogging issue is a result of soap and oil chemically mixing and sticking to your pipes.  

Most products like the one above kind of help, but don't really solve the problem.  On my properties, I have them professionally jetted out every 3-5 years.  Its basically a little pressure washer that strips all the goo off the pipe walls and washes it down.  

It costs, here in AZ, about $380 to have it done, and eliminates all drain issues (except for abuse), and plumbing calls.  It will also add lifespan to your piping, especially cast iron.  Once you weigh that cost against a few plumber visits, its a no-brainer, and even better, you can PLAN WHEN you spend it.  

Shop it around in your local area, and be aware that some companies only jet the main lines, while others will come jet the secondary drains, which, in your case, are the problem. 

Depends what's under the flooring.  If its wood, then yes, carpet will give the best sound barrier.  if concrete, then you have a lot of options.  

Back in my construction days, I hated seeing wood in condo's, as it was usually the cheap fake stuff, which is basically cardboard.  Any type of water on it, and you're in for a pretty big repair bill.  

There is an automotive product called "Roadkill" or "fattmatt" that is used in those crazy cars with all the big speakers, and is very, very effective.  Not the cheapest but if I were a condo dweller (which I am not) I would want to keep sound to a minimum.  

The biggest issue with sound transmission is not your carpet padding, its the guys who designed and framed, and insulated your building.  the ultimate solution would be to do foam injections into the subfloor, but that is probably out of the question.  

If it were me, I'd look at some Roadkill or Dynamat under the high traffic areas, and a pad from an actual carpet dealer.  the stuff they sell at HD/Lowes is garbage.