All Forum Posts by: Dan Ward

@Jay Granger check out www.creativemulticare.com , I can't give a personal reference but they do seem to be a market leader in the Atlanta area for epoxy style refinish jobs.

@Paul Staszel is more expensive paint worth the extra $$....yes and no. It really depends on the situation. Example, if you are building a home and painting fresh sheet rock it's no better to use the expensive brand verse the contractors grade. Why is that? Because the walls will require a coat or two of primer, then a coat or two of paint to look good so really you are getting solid coverage all combined. Now if you were repainted a house and one of the rooms was bright red or yellow that needed to be repainted, then you would want to spring for the more expensive or higher quality paint. It will have more titanium dioxide in the base, therefor offering much better coverage. Or maybe if you were painting a white wall to bright red, you would want to purchase the more expensive "red base" high pigmented paint to get the job done in two coats guaranteed. Time is money and you don't want to rely on hope when painting, hoping that it covers well enough. 

As far as the smoking tenants goes, I would give the walls a good washing with TSP then once dried come back with some Kiltz -oil based- primer. That's the one two punch for smoking tenants.

@Jay Granger PPG Breakthrough is pretty awesome and I have used it to paint just about everything! A proving factor that it works on floors is that it is hot tire resistant which is very uncommon for anything other than epoxy. It will work well for what you are needing with the bathroom being 100% tile, I will say I would not view it a extremely long term option. Just make sure you clean the tile very well before you paint, also....Breakthrough dries SUPER fast so running or drips shouldn't be an issue. I'm going to drop a link for a local guy here in Arkansas that's does some crazy good work with spray on epoxy for bathroom and kitchen refinishing....it's a nice example of what you could do when you are looking for the long term fix. 

https://www.facebook.com/allsurfaceresurfacing/

@Joe Ebanks Hey Joe, I apologize for the late reply! First, the hallway and closet that you mention have wallpaper than has been painted over. Are you working to totally redo the house? 99% of people will tell you to take the wallpaper down, I agree but I will also tell you that if it's an old house that wallpaper was more than likely put up correctly (sized as they call it) and it WILL NOT come down easily. No amount of chemical, water, scoring....will make it an easy task if it is like many other old houses with old expensive wall paper put up. So, I would plan on it being a chore to deal with. Other wise yes, take it down...skim coat the walls....primer...paint. The bin primer/sealer will work. The sealing aspect of it is incase there were any lifts in the sheetrock paper, it would glue them down. 

Second, the wood work....this will not be difficult once you have the technique down pat. So first you will want to find a board somewhere that you can practice with (maybe from a linen closet or something) because the key is the wood you are applying the stain to. I promise I have matched a thousands oil base stains and when one is sampled on white birch then applied to a 80 pine it's totally different. Either way, take down a sample board...clean and degloss it ...give it a light sanding....apply some wood conditioner (helps keep the stain even across the surface) and let it dry for 15 minutes or so. Then apply some "Jacobean" stain....I generally used PPG Olympic stains so if you can get this it you will be a happy camper. I love the "Jacobean" color because it is dark but has a perfect balance of red, black, brown, and yellow....so you will be able to play around with one or two coats to see if it matches closely enough or you will see that it needs some more black colorant, etc. It will take some messing around to get perfect but once you do it is a time consuming but easy /fun project. I sure hope this helps!

@Steven J. I could definitely write an article for the BP community. I will look more into that and possibly put out a short series of articles to allow an in depth but also organized coverage of painting issues and solutions. Maybe even a quick FAQ section also? 

@Chris Sukala Holy Cow! Sorry I'm just responding to these few posts....I didn't receive a notification that anyone had commented so I do apologize. I can only image most of the issues are solved now and I hate that I wasn't much help.....Chris on the windows the best bet is to tape off the windows to protect the glass, give the man a light sanding, and use a brush to apply a paint that's ad hears to the aluminum. Oil, latex, etc.....each kind will offer different brands for superiority but just make sure that it adheres to aluminum which there isn't a good number that do not. I would probably use BreakThrough a water borne acrylic because it applies like a latex and dries to the durability of an oil. And regarding your tip for the spraying of gutters I would have to say it is dependent upon the spray rig, the paint being applies, and what area you are working with. Sometimes it's just as easy to hand paint the gutters with a nice brush to avoid any over spray. 

@Jeremy M. Ouch! Just to clarify, that is interior wood paneling correct? It looks like it is a perfect combination of not cleaning/prepping the walls before hand and apply a very heavy first coat. And you are correct, the sprayer is just the applicator while the roller (back rolling) is used to smooth the paint out and finish the process. Those old panel walls hold tons of surface oil and dust so it's always best to clean with TSP before priming to make sure the surface is ready to adhere the primer. I would more than likely chemically remove and scrape the extremely bad areas, then take a pole sander to attempt to even out the other problem areas, and then would just roll a few coats to finish it out. Is this a rental property or a flip house? Sorry this happened! It's pretty common with old interior paneling

@Kurt K. yes indeed! Lots of "Greystone" light gray colors.....which I really like. And tons ...and tons....of "Toasted Almond", a nice beige color. Those are to very nice colors that people like and if you are using the same paint each time they tend to touch up pretty well. 

@Kurt K. I'm not sure what the reason behind the semi-gloss in rentals is but I do believe the fad has finally gone away. I have seen TONS of rental units sprayed ceiling to floor with beige or some other neutral color semi glass paint....and it was horrible! It was like you were inside of a balloon. It seems that these days you can just buy a good quality satin or eggshell and they offer the same if not better durability. Most of the time use eggshell on all of my walls, flat on ceilings and if I use any semigloss it is on the trim work and doors (but not always).  

@Luis Capriles I would have to know a few things before I could give you the correct answer. Do you know what the currently have on them? Lacquer, oil, latex, etc? Generally spec homes have cabinets painted with a semigloss oil for durability, it's also just as common for them to have lacquer on them. If it is an ugly or funky color that could mean someone covered the original top coat with a latex or caulk paint trying to mimick a faux finish? I will tell you my all time favorite cabinet finish is probably Pittsburg Paints (PPG) "Breakthrough".....it is a water borne acrylic. They dry fast, can be sprayed or brushed,  adhere to just about anything, are super durable, and over all give the lacquer sprayed finish minus all of the harsh chemicals and thinners. Either way, it's tough to tell you weather you should strip them down then sand/prime or just go right to sanding and priming without knowing how they look. Being a rental I figure a real good sand/prime/prep/finish should be just fine :) I hope this helps! 

There is a lot that goes into making a pure white paint oddly enough and each company has their own proprietary blends therefor really none will match perfectly. There are also hundreds of shades of white, which seems crazy but is true.