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All Forum Posts by: Dan Ward

Dan Ward has started 9 posts and replied 69 times.

Post: If you ever have questions about paint...I'm your guy!

Dan WardPosted
  • Real Estate Investor
  • Cabot, AR
  • Posts 70
  • Votes 38

@Andrew Stephens you are correct that I am always a fan of removing the wallpaper vs painting over it. It sounds like you have plaster walls (Venetian plaster) which is good because they are more than likely solid and great at dampening the sound. I have seen many many people remove wall paper from Venetian plaster and it generally does require some touching up of the walls with plaster. Again, these are historic properties that I've seen this done to so I'm sure it was a very high budget. 

Moving on to painting the walls. The good thing is that more than likely the wall coverings were well sized and not going anywhere. Wipe the walls down with some warm TSP on a damp sponge just to make sure they are super clean and ready for the primer. Oddly enough I would use....wait for it....oil based primer. Kiltz is always my go to as a primer/sealer. I don't know tons about the Glidden Gripper but I see that its a water based primer and I'm sure it would do similar to comparable latex primer/sealers. Every old school painter I have dealt with in the past always used oil based primer on top of wallpaper just for the fact that water-based primers saturate and soak into the wallpaper and can cause some bubbling and peeling of the glue. Seems odd but I've seen it used on massive hotel repaint projects and other residential jobs. So I would clean the walls gently and check for any peelings, then oil-based Kiltz primer/sealer, then a high quality latex top coat.

Post: If you ever have questions about paint...I'm your guy!

Dan WardPosted
  • Real Estate Investor
  • Cabot, AR
  • Posts 70
  • Votes 38

@Michael Zack sorry for the delay! I didn't notice a notification for your response. And I apologize for any confusion about the color, I just meant that when doing the assessment for repainting, the current paint color would somewhat matter. If its a rental property you will have to repaint and scrub walls at some point so I'm always a fan of using a color that is friendly to touch ups. Some examples would be a light grey such as "flagstone" or "elephant grey" or maybe even a nice beige like "kilim beige" or "sandstone". 

Post: If you ever have questions about paint...I'm your guy!

Dan WardPosted
  • Real Estate Investor
  • Cabot, AR
  • Posts 70
  • Votes 38

@Michael Zack id have to say it could be a few variables into my choice of the best paint/primer to use. Are the walls in good shape and Sheetrock...or paneling? Do you plan to paint the ceilings also? You would were having to patch areas....tape off areas...and really give a from scratch paint job I would say that honestly the commercial "speed hide" version of paint and primer would do just fine. The current color of the walls and the new color would also come into play if you were just painting over some super red walls, maybe super yellow walls....I would use a higher quality paint and primer like "Manor Hall" just to get better coverage on top of the harsh base color. I would definitely go with a beige color such as...toasted almond, just because in my experience it seems like beige touches up the best, being a rental you will end up doing a lot of touching up haha. 

Post: If you ever have questions about paint...I'm your guy!

Dan WardPosted
  • Real Estate Investor
  • Cabot, AR
  • Posts 70
  • Votes 38

Just got note of this 25% coupon for PPG that is good until December 2017. It can be used on just about anything so if anyone plans to paint a rental property or refurb a house it could save you a solid chunk on the total paint material bill. Each major manufacturer drops similar coupons sometimes up to 50% off each year because they are looking to clear some warehouse inventory out. Keeping your eyes peeled for them can really save some dollars! 

https://www.ppgpaints.com/pdfs/ppg-paints-web-coupon.aspx

Post: If you ever have questions about paint...I'm your guy!

Dan WardPosted
  • Real Estate Investor
  • Cabot, AR
  • Posts 70
  • Votes 38

@Michaela G. I totally understand, just ask for an acrylic bonding primer. This is great quality and will really hold tight to the enamel spits under it. 

Post: If you ever have questions about paint...I'm your guy!

Dan WardPosted
  • Real Estate Investor
  • Cabot, AR
  • Posts 70
  • Votes 38

@Account Closed Question for ya Adam, is the porch concrete or wood? 99% of the time when you see air bubbles like you have mentioned its just because the concrete has not been sealed or it was painted in the summer heat. A few things can causes air bubbles in general, those are: moisture under the paint (not letting it fully dry), dirty concrete (maybe some debris or an oil spot), or painting in pretty hot weather. When you paint in the summer heat, let's say the common dark brown porch paint, it has TONS of colorant pigments in the paint so it takes longer to cure/dry. In the summer heat it will nearly bake the top layer of the paint not allowing the bottom layer to fully cure. This then forms air pockets as the bottom later never really adhered to the concrete. Good thing is, areas that do not have air pockets are cured and pretty well attached to the concrete. I would give the surface a good pressure washing, scrap away any areas that have been issues in the past, apply a concrete primer/sealer, then apply two top coats with adequate time in between coats. It is a pain in the butt to do this but it will alleviate the issues you are having and ideally you wont have to mess with it again for many years.  

ps. There are these new "resurfacing" paints offered by most major brands, you get HORRIBLE coverage with them but they are pretty awesome. They have some texture to them and can smooth over just about anything. It this was a wooden deck I would definitely just pressure wash, dry, then apply something like this. The same can be done for concrete but some feel the texture looks a little uneven on smooth concrete surfaces. Hope this helps! 

Post: If you ever have questions about paint...I'm your guy!

Dan WardPosted
  • Real Estate Investor
  • Cabot, AR
  • Posts 70
  • Votes 38

@Michaela G. sorry for the delayed response, I was driving for a majority of the day yesterday! You will definitely want to get that enamel off before painting on top of it. Your best bet is to use a chemical stripper, Kiltz offers a "concrete paint stripper" as do many other companies. I would shoot for something biodegradable otherwise they will repackage aircraft paint stripper and it will kill any grass or vegetation it touches. Generally the chemical removers are as simple as apply.....let it set for a period of time....then wash/scrub the area clean. This will then leave a clean enough surface to apply some good quality primer then you will be good to go. I would also send the bill for all of that to the former tenant haha! 

ps. there are some primers out that would be able to really chew into the enamel paint, maybe like a shellac based or specialty primer BUT I would just go ahead and remove all I could to save for future headaches. 

Post: If you ever have questions about paint...I'm your guy!

Dan WardPosted
  • Real Estate Investor
  • Cabot, AR
  • Posts 70
  • Votes 38

@Andrew D. I have heard the same about using an oil based primer then a laxtex top coat on exteriors, I also know many that use an oil based primer on molding and trim pieces then latex top coat. I'm not sure if there is any data to show if it is more durabler just a wise tale of the old painters BUT I will say in general oil based primers are really good. I would much rather use a kiltz oil based than some cheap latex if money were not a question. The oil base primers are excellent at stain blocking,  adhesion, and sealing. As far as exterior latex goes I would 100% spend the extra money and go for the premium product like -Timeless- from PPG. It is such a good product they offer a 100 year money back guarantee (I'm quite certain it's valid for 100 years...you may want to fact check me haha!) I seen many historical home restorations use this product with rave reviews from anyone who has used it. It is a pretty penny but is well worth it in the long run. 

On the paint prepping regular wood siding I would just say an important step many skip would be to fill any cracks and crevices you can with a resin filler, repair/replace caulking, and smooth over any areas that would allow moisture to get behind that paint. I would do this after a reallly good TSP and power washing to remove any loose paint. From that point solid coverage with that paint will leave you will a really nice paint job for many years to come.

I hope this helps! Thanks! 

Post: If you ever have questions about paint...I'm your guy!

Dan WardPosted
  • Real Estate Investor
  • Cabot, AR
  • Posts 70
  • Votes 38

@Sebby Gabre Madhin I'm a fan of the smaller Graco 350 model from PPG or Sherwin Williams. It's generally around $300 or less and will last a lifetime. Ive use a ton of spray rigs in my day and it really comes down to personal preference and how often you use it. I've seen people use super cheap ones from a pawn shop but still put out quality work, while I've also seen people do horrible work with super expensive units. 

If I were you I would put in the effort to become an EXCELLENT painter with just a brush and roller for the rehabs. It will help you better understand the bidding for jobs, and will let you know when a painter is too proud of their work and charging a crazy price. I hope this helps! Thanks! 

Post: If you ever have questions about paint...I'm your guy!

Dan WardPosted
  • Real Estate Investor
  • Cabot, AR
  • Posts 70
  • Votes 38

@Michaela G. I'm a fan of painted brick oddly enough! If done properly it will last years, look great, and add tons of curb appeal. People that complain about it are the same ones that think you can paint a house once and never touch it again for 100 years. So the trick to a super nice brick paint job would be the following:

*Clean with TSP or just give a good washing. Let it set for 24+ hours to dry

*Use elastomeric caulking on any decent sized cracks in the brick to stop moisture from getting behind the paint 

*look for ~elastomeric paint~ this is the secret weapon used on commercial jobs where brick is painted (and it's done quite often). You can get both paint and primer as an elastomeric product. The pricing isn't horrible per gallon but you won't get the same coverage as you would a normal gallon of paint. This paint will flex with the temperature changes and last the longest. 

Now if this is just a rental and you really don't want to go the elastomeric paint route....you could use a high quality exterior latex primer followed by a good quality exterior top coat. If you go this route one more pearl of wisdom would be to use something called "Seal Crete" it's made by a few different companies. It's like Thompson watersealer for brick and concrete. It helps cut back on efflorescence and seals the brick which helps cut back on the amount of primer to absorb into the brick. 

I hope this helps!!