Help choosing a floor plan - how do you do it?

Question

Hey folks, I enjoy designing functional spaces in my flips, taking advantage of the square feet, creating the most usable environment possible. On my current flip I have knocked out a bathroom, and bedroom wall separator to make one large master suite, allow space to move the laundry upstairs from the basement, add a coat closet, and half bath.

I was racking my brain about how to use the space and finally think I've come up with the most optimal solution. Please feel free to comment and suggest something better. My GC keeps saying he will have Home Depot design a floor plan, but hasn't produced. I am handy with Visio and drew up floor plans for my last place, researching all the clearance requirements, but still this isn't a perfectly accurate drawing and wonder what I should do to be sure the walls are put in the exact correct location. For example, if I need 3' of clearance that includes drywall. Things have to be precise!

What's new:

- new deck in back with master/main floor access

- the hallway exiting to the deck is where the current full bathroom is

- laundry closet sized for modern washer/dryers

- coat closet with 2" more depth than required for coats (28")

- I wanted a soaking tub in the master, but just isn't enough room

- the shower in the master will have a long horizontal window near the top for sunlight, and will use a glass surround allowing light in.

- The walk in closet entry could be bumped further into the master main floor area, but I think it's plenty big enough and prefer a luxurious open floor space for maneuvering in the master bath. Not sure what to do with the large corner space aside from a towel rack. Suggestions? I could also re-orient the shower along that back wall and have a normal window next to the vanity.

- the windows/doors all can be moved as much of the siding wood is rotted and is being replaced.

- the doors to the deck I plan to use full glass pane doors for more spacious feel and light and modern look. I don't think folks will feel insecure with them as it's a very private back yard, the deck is one story up, and security lights will be installed.

Thanks!!!

Brian Pulaski · Answer

Hopefully this comes off helpful, but you really need an architect to assist you. There are a lot of codes, rules and laws that need to be followed when laying out a space. An architect/designer will know them and be able to make a usable space with these rules incorporated. I have an architectural degree and 10+ years in construction and this tight layout would have me meeting with an architect (one in the town/city the house is in).

Jim Adrian · Answer

@Leland Smith

Powder room door needs to be hinged on the opposite jamb.  1) allows for the door to be pushed shut if someone is running out of the house. 2) allows for extra level of privacy if someone opens the door on them.

Powder room size is ok but don't go any smaller than that.  It functions at that size (barely).  I have the same size in my primary house and its used all the time.

Bedroom on the left needs a closet otherwise its not a legal bedroom.  This will hurt your resale value greatly.

WIC will only fit shelving on 2 walls. I would consider swinging that door outward. Door size 2'-6"

Note: your plumbing walls will need to go to 2x8 if you want pipes in them. Otherwise its surface mounted plumbing.

Nik Moushon · Answer

First problem is your second "bedroom" is not an actual bedroom since it has no closet. You can't legal market it as a two bed house and it will effect your appraisal.

Second, is barn doors are not as popular as HGTV makes them out to be, especially in bedrooms. They have next to zero sound absorption ability and on a bathroom that means you get to hear EVERYTHING.

Third, your WIC looks too small to have shelves on both two sides. You really need two feet btwn the wall and the door to have a shelf there otherwise cloths will get hit by door swing.

Fourth, windows in showers/tubs seem nice but they can be water traps at the sill and end up rotting out window and wall. Be very careful if you do this. Personally I never would.

Fifth, your powder room really is too small. Though doable it will never be comfortable and will be okward to use. I would be able to sit on the toilet and touch the sink,aybe even wash my hands too.

Sixth, side note on pocket doors: though doable in a 2x4 wall it's a pita and even more so if you need to fix it. A 2x6 wall is much much easier to do one in.

Lastly, I would never hire an unlicensed GC unless it's under extreme circumstances. Him being the cheapest also raises lots of red flags. Also your city might not let you do this flip without one. Be very very very careful with this guy. The only standard that he is held to is his own. I can almost garuntee that he will not be cheaper in the end.

Leland S. · Answer

Thank you all - I indeed hired an architect. I will have to work out how to deal with the codes when I get into town because my guy is unlicensed...So I am crossing my fingers there. This task was way beyond my capabilities and I didn't want a clooged hoouse!

BTW the regular Bedroom is existing and untouched, this is a rehab of to the right of that bedroom which used to be a full bathroom and two bedrooms.

@Brian Pulaski

@Nik Moushon - thank you for the inputs. Good things to adjust too. I'll see what the architect comes up with. I will be getting a permit in my own name... so yes, I am crossing fingers he's doing things right until I get the permit out. They won't allow non-licensed GC to take out permit I guess, so only home owner has to show in person and I'm out of town. I might look into sending my parents as representative - that seemed to work last time and they didn't ask questions.

Leland S. · Answer

@Jennifer Hyman -

All very good points. I hired a GC who's not a licensed guy. So he's cheaper, but he doesn't use a computer. I drew these up to give him an idea but I figured he'd have a way to get solid plans. He wants me to get the permit because he is not licensed. So.... I don't know anything about standard stuff, just looked up online to get an idea of what's possible.

I thought hallways were 36"? I Guess I am wrong! :(

Not sure I understand what you mean about the meeting of walls.

On my last rehab we had standard 2x4 walls and redid all the bathroom plumbing in them, tub, shower, sinks. I haven't heard of 2x6 requirement. That would be a thick wall!

Bedroom 2 has a closet existing. They will shower upstairs, or it will be an office.

This house is in Tennessee, but I am not aware of any issue with pipes being on outside walls, so long as it's on the interior side. I'll check on it, but I hope it's not the case. Currently the kitchen sink is that way.

The coat closet is for the main living space. There is no coat closet in the house now, that is accessible from the hallway off the main living room.

Haven't heard of a wall hung toilet before. It seems a standard toilet and pedestal sink will fit with 6' length. It's tight but doable. I thought the toilet being against the window made more sense. Is there a particular reason to switch?

The door widths are called out in the updated drawing below. Standard door of 36" is going into the master bedroom.

I could do a stackable washer/dryer. I don't plan on buying them, so the buyer can do as they wish. But I figure I'll provide standard sized laundry room to fit whatever they want.

I thought barn doors were all the rage now a days?? Well actually I've been turned on by this pocket door instead anyway.

Updated drawing below (but looks like this gets blown away now):

Jennifer Hyman · Answer

Hello! I see a couple things that can help.

Plumbing walls should be 6". Are you building in AZ? If not, put all the plumbing on the interior walls so the pipes don't freeze.

You've got an awkward wall situation going on where east/west wall meets the north/south wall  in the powder room/laundry/toilet closet/master bath area and it's not going to get built like that.

Use a wall hung toilet in the powder room and a pedestal sink to give you some extra room. Switch the placement of the two and use a pocket door.

Where does the person in bedroom 2 shower? Bedroom 2 also needs a closet.

Are you using 36" doors throughout? You don't need to have 36" doors on closets etc. Are the hallways at least 42"? Can you do a stackable laundry unit? Do you need to have the laundry by the bedrooms? If not, put it back in the basement. Do you need a coat closet in the bedroom area?

Actually, remove the powder room, laundry, and coat closet and make a bathroom with shower for the person in bedroom 2. This might also open up room for you to make the MB more functional and put in the soaking tub.

Barn doors are fun for basement areas or family room type spaces, but not the master bathroom.

Are you able legally permit and build from plans like this? Don't they need to be stamped by an architect?

I hope some of this helps.

Leland S. · Answer

@Lynnette E. -

Thanks for your inputs!

I know it seems like a lot of doors because of all the opening drawings! But that is the reality of a small space. You should have seen what I did with my last place with a laundry inside a downstairs full bathroom with dual entry, 4 full sized doors in a matter of 50 sqft. As far as doors the key is that they aren't obtrusive to use or in either position. For the toilet and closet doors they swing in so that they won't inhibit the space.

Bi-Fold doors - I was considering the bi-fold doors for laundry as they are pretty common, but I feel they are a bit "cheap". If you think about any large house, it has all regular doors because they have large rooms. I feel even if the space is small a real door gives the feeling of a quality house. The closet doors would be the false knob, or small knob pull doors. I will take another look at the bi-fold options, as for the coat closet this might make sense and reduce the amount of door knobs hanging out in the hallway.

Coat closet towards back - The front of the house is at the bottom of the picture, main entry to the living room. There is no closet there, so having a central coat/storage closet would mean easiest access to the entire house for jackets/vacuums/etc. Also, I like that the half bath will have a small window for natural light and provide "wash room" at the rear entry when people come in the house from the deck.

Barn door - I'm surprised given you don't like doors you don't like a barn door! The reason I like a barn door in the master bath is twofold: 1. It's a hot item these days and always adds design appeal, 2. it allows the door to hang open as desired expanding the space and since the toilet and closet are private, it probably would be used that way in this arrangement. Also, the entryway can be wider giving the space more open feel. I think it feels rich when the bathroom is an extension of the master bedroom.

Pocket door - I think I agree with this one for the toilet as swinging door would be annoying, and the choice of privacy doesn't mean a door being in the way - same philosophy as barn door.

Lynnette E. · Answer

I'd change the door to the small bath, master bath, closet, and toilet room to pocket doors.  I'd also have the laundry closet and coat closet as bifold doors or some rolling folding door.

You kind of have a door nightmare going on.  Plus I hate so many door to walk around when they often are not used.  And I REALLY hate barn doors!

I think that putting the coat closet by the door to the deck would make more sense than putting the small bath there.  Maybe rework the bath, washer room and coat closet to do that.  And a full size stacking washer and dryer may be more space efficient.

Help choosing a floor plan - how do you do it?

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