Flipper/Rehabber · Austin, TX · Member since 2016 · 39 posts · 37 votes
Hi All - So I have two rental houses in Houston. My property manager called yesterday and told me that two of my houses were under water. One had about 18" of water in it and the other had 48" in it. My insurance agent says TWIA isn't going to cover it and I don't have flood insurance. While I fight that fight, I want to know from people who have done it: what all goes into renovating a flood damaged house? My plan is to get a crew I have working on a flip in San Antonio to go down there when we can get it and just cut out all the wet sheetrock, pull the carpet/pad and any other flooring that isn't tile. I figure I will need to get new outside A/C units, but that can wait. I am assuming I'll need new appliances and maybe new cabinetry? Maybe new doors? What about things you can't see, like electrical, plumbing, or anything? I want to get the houses dry ASAP and then what to keep them from getting moldy? Spray bleach water everywhere once we rip out the wet stuff? What am I missing?
BTW they are both brick veneer on slabs if it matters. Thanks all for your advice!!!
Bring lots of fans. LOTS of fans. Soap - elbow grease - ionization machine (maybe), Dehumidifiers, shop vacs.
Assess from there.
Might need all new electric, but not guaranteed. Be able to bring in a generator if the electrical is shot - you still need to plug in power tools, etc. Might want to do a sewer scope to see if sewer is still intact - they take a lot of water pressure in a situation like this and if the ground is as saturated as is being reported, sewer pipes can and do shift.
Not just bleach water for cleaning, but specialized anti-microbial solution.
TONS of patience and a huge sense of humor. Ability to laugh at what's happening and kleenex for when you can't.
I've never had to deal with a house like what you'll be doing, but I've worked with and seen a house that had a major plumbing leak that sat for a weekend and this is the steps that were used to get started.
Bring lots of fans. LOTS of fans. Soap - elbow grease - ionization machine (maybe), Dehumidifiers, shop vacs.
Assess from there.
Might need all new electric, but not guaranteed. Be able to bring in a generator if the electrical is shot - you still need to plug in power tools, etc. Might want to do a sewer scope to see if sewer is still intact - they take a lot of water pressure in a situation like this and if the ground is as saturated as is being reported, sewer pipes can and do shift.
Not just bleach water for cleaning, but specialized anti-microbial solution.
TONS of patience and a huge sense of humor. Ability to laugh at what's happening and kleenex for when you can't.
I've never had to deal with a house like what you'll be doing, but I've worked with and seen a house that had a major plumbing leak that sat for a weekend and this is the steps that were used to get started.
Jack Henry You're on track. Electrical inspection yes, plumbing maybe not, new water heater maybe. Basically everything that got wet will be thrown away. No flood insurance = not covered, pretty clear, no use of fighting that to be honest. Don't forget insulation, and when cutting, do 12-18" above wet area, sometimes it sucks the water and climb up. Bring a backpack sprayer to spray everything wet with bleach as much concentration as possible, dirty water is full of germs. If I were you, i'll get a building inspector to inspect all leaks and bad issues, just tell them you want mediocre repair or close to minimum repair. Don't forget remove all insulation and re-install.
@Darwin Crawford Thanks for the quick reply - Junction boxes at the top of the drop makes a lot of sense. Do you think the best thing to do would be cut the sheetrock at the water line or just go for broke and cut it at the ceiling?
@Linda Weygant great advice. They estimate 3+ weeks until electricity is restored, so generators are making the trip. Is there any easy way to know if the electric is shot while the power is out? What is an ionization machine?
What about stuff that water touches, but is mean to get wet? I.e. toilets, tubs, tile, sinks, etc?? Do I need to rip all that crap out too? Keep in mind these are $75k rent houses. I want to make them safe and livable, not perfect.
No flood insurance = not covered, pretty clear, no use of fighting that to be honest.
Ehh, he has windstorm insurance. I'm not expert, but it seems like the hurricane is what caused the flooding and he has hurricane insurance, so sounds like it may be worth fighting????
I wouldn't rip out anything that's not visibly damaged. You can get by without a generator if you have a 1500 watt power inverter for your car (about $40)
@Jack Henry - depends on how quick you get the water out. Mold will creep up the backside of the drywall if it stays wet a couple days.
Cut out the bottom 4' (1 sheet width), strip out insulation and check with flashlight. I'd imagine that replacing all the drywall is not going to be insanely more expensive that replacing half of it, but no idea what supply of material is, nor install labor.
If you see black spots or bubbles on back side of drywall, snatch it out of there.
Some of this also depends on what efforts are made to mitigate damage. Things getting wet is not always a problem. It's more about what type of water affected the materials and for HOW LONG. Infected or (black) water combined with time and high temps brings about a contamination issue.
No flood insurance = not covered, pretty clear, no use of fighting that to be honest.
Ehh, he has windstorm insurance. I'm not expert, but it seems like the hurricane is what caused the flooding and he has hurricane insurance, so sounds like it may be worth fighting????
Not how it works unfortunately. If wind caused the damage that led to water, then there is an argument. For example if your roof blew off and the rain poured in. If the flood waters come down the street and into your house, that is what flood insurance is for.
You can fight anything, but your policy terms are probably very clear.
1. Remove all wet materials ASAP, i.e. drywall, carpet, insulation, laminate floors, doors, cabinets, appliances, etc. Ceramic tile, if on the slab can stay unless damaged. It is common to regrout, though. Depending on the type, some of the exterior sheathing may need replacing. Drywall is usually cut one foot above the flood line. However, if there is siphoning of water up the wall/insulation, you may have to do the entire wall. The longer it sits, there is a risk of having to go further up the wall for material removal.
2. Dry all studs and sheathing to 12% moisture (some contractor’s use 15%). Use COMMERCIAL dehumidifiers and blowers.
3 Treat with a product that kills mildew, such as Microban or Concrobium. Bleach has an issue of leaving moisture on the surfaces after the chlorine has evaporated, so these products are better.
4. To go the extra mile, you can use Aftershock coating on all flood exposed wood studs and sheathing. This is a basically a special paint, albeit an expensive one (about $60/gallon), that resists mold.
5. If possible, you can get a flood renovation specialist to do steps 3 and 4. They will provide you with a “mold certificate.” This may be important if you want to sell the house later. If you have any doubts on how to do this, by all means let a professional do it. However, learn the process so you can verify their work. Once you close up the walls, you will be in a bad position if mold grows on the other side.
6. All electrical outlets exposed to water will have to be changed.
7. Build out the house just like it was a new construction. Get necessary permits. Depending on local municipalities, you may have to get a permit to get the electricity turned back on. The AC condensers will probably run or need minor repairs. However, it is usually recommended for replacement. If you still have R-22 systems and you change the condenser, you will have to change the evaporator as well since these systems (R-410A) are not compatible with R-22 components.
As stated, there is no possible claim on your standard insurance. If the wind causes a hole in the structure, and Rain falls Directly into the structure, then that damage is covered. Once Rain hits the ground/water bodies, it is no longer Rain, it isRising Flood Waters. Rising flood waters are only covered by flood insurance.
The only possible claim would be if you had Both damages (not really common in Harvey, but it was in Katrina). Then it's an issue of which occurred first, and what was damaged by each.
Typically you want to pull out the insulation behind the sheet rock all the way to the ceiling, it wicks the water well above the actual water line. Electric wires are likely okay, the outlets below the water line need to be replaced.
If you were at 48", I'd tear all drywall and insulation out to the ceiling. Repair will be cheaper and easier. Make sure to take pictures and document what you do, including moisture readings. When you have documentation and get it back in service, you want to be able to defend your work and make sure you have an insurable house.
I would guess that condemnation notices would start to appear soon. You'll need documentation for getting an occupancy permit when things are back together.
Your insurance should cover rent loss even though you don't have flood insurance. Might want to check that since we are past 9/1 and (assuming you have one) the mortgage will be due...
You can try to fight it, and you may get some. But regardless, the sheet rock and anything wet has to go! The tile grout has to be cleaned too. Of course you can save your upper cabinets. The plumbing is okay unless the water has seeped around subflooring. Get your shrimp boots on(white rubber boots)
Jason Hirko Most likely still no, if water entered from roof (most possible a tore roof due to wind load), or broke a window then entered, then yes, that portion is covered. If water was coming from the flood (did not hit the house directly from sky to house) or from a aquatic body, no it is not covered.
Sorry, responded without reading, there were two similar posts of the same nature which were the same. Also, hurricane ins mostly covers wind+rain, not ground/rising water.
No flood insurance = not covered, pretty clear, no use of fighting that to be honest.
Ehh, he has windstorm insurance. I'm not expert, but it seems like the hurricane is what caused the flooding and he has hurricane insurance, so sounds like it may be worth fighting????
Just saw trump is pledging $13B. At 100,000 doors, that's about... $130,000 per door. Or put another way, sounds like $106 from each of the 122M US taxpayers. That may be good news for the uninsured. It's just going to take some time, if Katrina and Matthew are any precedent.
We got 3 ft in 2010. Replaced 4' sheetrock, all trim and doors (neighbors doors were ok and some reused lower cabinets...pulled them and repainted), lower electrical outlets. Hvac was okay. Steam cleaned the tile and grout. We used a garden sprayer and bleach, then pine sol on the framing. And used a moisture meter on framing to know when dry enough to button back up. Water heater and appliances were trash.
Make sure you take the mold seriously, research as much as you can about it. Take as much precautions as you need too. It can make you very sick. Investing in a thermal imaging meter can protect you as seeing where there is a lot of moisture.
And fans fans fans like @Linda Weygant said. you'll be surprised how fast these things can dry up the water over night. They sell pretty good ones at lowes and home depot.
Jason Hirko Most likely still no, if water entered from roof (most possible a tore roof due to wind load), or broke a window then entered, then yes, that portion is covered. If water was coming from the flood (did not hit the house directly from sky to house) or from a aquatic body, no it is not covered.
We got 3 ft in 2010. Replaced 4' sheetrock, all trim and doors (neighbors doors were ok and some reused lower cabinets...pulled them and repainted), lower electrical outlets. Hvac was okay. Steam cleaned the tile and grout. We used a garden sprayer and bleach, then pine sol on the framing. And used a moisture meter on framing to know when dry enough to button back up. Water heater and appliances were trash.
Hi Marian,
How do you use the moisture meter and what percentage is safe to button back up? I am not sure where to measure exactly
We got a $20 moisture meter from Home Depot and measured the studs and sill plate in random areas. Texas a&m extension service disaster recovery guide says 15% moisture to insulate and sheetrock.