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Updated over 5 years ago,

User Stats

40
Posts
17
Votes
Mark Kudlach jr.
  • Bozrah, CT
17
Votes |
40
Posts

Septic Tank Advice That Will Save you Money!

Mark Kudlach jr.
  • Bozrah, CT
Posted

Hello BP,

Figured I would provide some free advice that could save you an emergency rate call averaging from $125.00 to $450.00 sometimes more depending on which part of the country you live in. As a licensed septic installer and licensed plumber I find a very common problem in the service industry to be septic tank backups. Here are some tips to prevent future backups and possible service charges.

In a code complying situation generally for all septic tanks installed in the Late 90'S early 2000's installed properly you'll have what they call an outlet filter on the out going pipe into your leaching fields. If you're on city sewage you don't have to worry about this. Best way to know is, are you paying for a sewer bill or a water bill? If not, most likely you have a onsite sewage disposal system. Which should be pumped on average between every 3-5 years depending on how many people live in the home on a regular basis (3-5 people normally). And its also safe to say that the tank should be pumped even more frequently if it's older than 10-15 yrs in age,Bio-mat or a black slimy substance tends to clog most leaching fields over time. Back to the outlet filter, this will be located under the outgoing cover to the septic tank hence the name "outlet filter". Simply uncover the tank, which should by code be within 12" of existing finished grade. If you can't locate your tank go to the local health dept they should have the dimensions on file, ask them for the "As-built" plan your contractor who installed the system should have filed with the town upon completion of the work.If your tank is any deeper than 12" into grade you may want to add what they call a "riser" with cover over each cement cover of the septic tank, or at least where the pipe enters the tank and exits the tank. Lift the cover....sometimes easier said than done.....(you may need a 3 lb hammer to tap around the cover a couple of times to break the seal) Be careful not to hit it hard enough to actually break the cover completely. Proceed to lift the cover after breaking the seal. Now is the fun part! Put some rubber gloves on for this portion(smelly). If installed correctly you should see a 4" diameter PVC tee submerged into the effluent(milky substance). Reach down into the tee lift the filter out and proceed to clean over the tank with a hose until plastic edges are free of debris. This device is installed on most updated systems to prevent large objects from getting into the leaching fields.Once free of all debris insert back into original tee and line up arrow indicator on top of filter. This is one of the most common problems associated with septic tank backups. If you cannot stomach this process I don't blame you, when I do it I smell money nothing else lol, but at least now you'll be armed with this information the next time your pumping guy comes out to service the tank. Remember as well, that if you don't see the pumping guy digging up all three covers when pumping they did not pump the tank correctly.Updated tanks have internal baffle walls which are present from the manufacturer enabling the solids to be separated from the liquids , meaning if they only pump from the center cover which is most common.

1.They don't get all of the water out of the tank.

2.They cannot visually inspect the outlet condition.

3.They cannot clean the outlet filter. 

4.They cannot inspect the inlet condition where the pipe comes in from the house.

Hope this post helps you to educate you on septic maintenance and possibly saves you money in the future. If you have any question on septic or plumbing let me know I'll answer any question if you need me.

Thanks,

Mark

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