Clear coat on these cabinets?

Question

Hi folks,

I am going through my 1st rehab and I am as excited as it gets. I'm driving my wife crazy talking about it all the time. Hope it dies down as more come.

Now, the cabinets in the kitchen and bath are in very god shape but they look a bit too "builder grade" or worn out. I was first thinking in tinting them, then change my mind to probably just apply some clear coat varnish that enhances t

he color and brings some gloss and life into them. I'll be putting "uba tuba" granite on.

What do you think?...what product would you recommend?

Michael Boyer · Answer

I encounter this vintage and condition of wood cabinet frequently. My recipe for refreshing these wood cabinets ( just the outer visible surfaces) on rental turn-arounds and sales is as follows (similar to many ideas here).

1. Use TSP and warm water with the abrasive side of standard scotch brite sponge to clean/degloss. Dip in the sponge and wring it out. Then rub the cabinets thoroughly with the abrasive side. This cuts the kitchen greases and deglosses the cabinets (prepping them to take the new stain/poly--which comes next). Maybe lay out a painters tarp or paper towels on the floors and counter to catch any water drips and to keep everything clean. You will be surprised how much oil/dirt was hidden on the surface in a kitchen. Getting this off and de-glossing is key to the new coat.

2. Let dry a day or so. Wipe them down with  clean dry cloth to remove any remaining dust or smudges.

3. I apply Minwax Polyshades (a stain and poly in one). Partly because I like it to go fast. One step. Use a brand new high quality brush that works for stains/polyurethanes. I would not go beyond a couple of inches in width. I just pick the closest color/shade. They have a color sample sheet/brochure in many stores or online. The goal is to liven it up--not change the color. I have luck with the most similar shade.. I have used satin sheen more on cabinets (I think they have a gloss too); it depends on your goal

4. Brush the polyshades on thin but cover the surface. You don't want drips. Use a respirator due to fumes and ventilate the area. Leave when you are done. You don't want dust or hairs getting on the surface as it stays embedded.

(BTW, never shake your Polyshades can or you get heinous bubbles in your surface. Stir regularly, up from the bottom, to mix the stain and poly thoroughly, especially to start then at intervals).

5. Come back the next day and use a new clean scotch brite sponge (abrasive side) to scuff it lightly to prep for a second coat. Wipe away the light dust from this scuffing thoroughly and repeat the second coat. If your brush is toast, just use a new one. I have trouble rescuing brushes from this product after a use or two. But you want a good one for precision and so you don't shed bristles (Purdy, Wooster, etc). It is worth sacrificing a couple of good soldiers, especially compared with the cost and labor of all new cabinets.

It is a low cost project, one quart of polyshades (maybe 12-15 bucks) and a couple of really good brushes and some ordinary scotch brites kitchen sponges (which Costco sells in bulk). But it takes lots of elbow grease.

If you have any doubts or want to practice, I would pull the fridge and do the hidden side of that cabinet or maybe try on the back of a cabinet door (with a disposable brush sponge) for practice and to see the effect.

Many prospective tenants and even some realtors have been impressed with the finished product (thinking them new or professionally re-done). So you get some decent "wow" factor for very little money. The same routine can work on other wood surfaces as well.

Best of luck!

Brian Pulaski · Answer

@Allende Hernandez you need a good roller chassis for the roller to go. You can also thin the product if it's sliding and not rolling. As far as getting it smooth, the tipping I mentioned takes the surface bubbles off and the product levels from that point.

JD Martin · Answer

Adding a coat of polyurethane is super easy on cabinets like that. Knock off the high gloss with a light/medium grit sanding sponge, tack all the dust, light coat of poly (oil is nice but stinks, water based works well too but doesn't level quite as easy as oil), let it dry for a *couple* of days (forget about the couple hours the can says), fine grit sponge it, tack it, second coat. You'll be amazed how the cabinets end up looking like brand new.

Nathan Paisley · Answer

Here's an example. Had multiple offers on this one :)

Allende Hernandez · Answer

@Julie Marquez Uba Tuba came at the same price than the lower ones, so we decided to go with it. We'll install stainless still new appl. Those are for sale!! :)

Allende Hernandez · Answer

Thank you all, these are all pretty good advice!!

Happy Investing!

Amy A. · Answer

I just use furniture polish.  Much cheaper, less time and cleans as it shines them up a bit.  Have done this with several flips.

Allende Hernandez · Answer

@Brian Pulaski I've tried using a roller when testing epoxy over a countertop and the thing was so thick that it was dragging instead of rolling. I know this coat is thick too, how do you avoid the dragging? Also, I assume it levels itself correct?

Doug Woodville · Answer

In the past I've used a sponge style paint brush (the cheap black ones you can get for about $.99/ea) or you can even use a clean rag. It looks like they have Euro style hinges so you can pop off the doors. I'd suggest taking one off and doing the inside first to see how it turns out and if you like it.

Brian Pulaski · Answer

Any time I have done clear finish over wood I roll it on with a small foam roller, and tip it off with a good badger hair brush. I have seen results that look sprayed with this method.

Clear coat on these cabinets?

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