Skip to content
×
Pro Members Get
Full Access!
Get off the sidelines and take action in real estate investing with BiggerPockets Pro. Our comprehensive suite of tools and resources minimize mistakes, support informed decisions, and propel you to success.
Advanced networking features
Market and Deal Finder tools
Property analysis calculators
Landlord Command Center
ANNUAL Save 54%
$32.50 /mo
$390 billed annualy
MONTHLY
$69 /mo
billed monthly
7 day free trial. Cancel anytime
×
Take Your Forum Experience
to the Next Level
Create a free account and join over 3 million investors sharing
their journeys and helping each other succeed.
Use your real name
By signing up, you indicate that you agree to the BiggerPockets Terms & Conditions.
Already a member?  Login here
Rehabbing & House Flipping
All Forum Categories
Followed Discussions
Followed Categories
Followed People
Followed Locations
Market News & Data
General Info
Real Estate Strategies
Landlording & Rental Properties
Real Estate Professionals
Financial, Tax, & Legal
Real Estate Classifieds
Reviews & Feedback

Updated over 8 years ago on . Most recent reply

User Stats

51
Posts
12
Votes
Peter Grote
  • Investor
  • Seattle, WA
12
Votes |
51
Posts

galvanized pipes - when to replace

Peter Grote
  • Investor
  • Seattle, WA
Posted

I am starting to purchase SFR homes to buy and hold. The homes I'm getting tend to be older 1900-1950 and so have galvanized pipes. What rule of thumb do people tend to use for when to replace them? when something's leaking? or when the hot water flow is becoming too slow? or when it's convenient because you're doing other rehab anyway? and then do a little at a time or all at once? thanks

Most Popular Reply

User Stats

9,939
Posts
15,988
Votes
JD Martin
  • Rock Star Extraordinaire
  • Northeast, TN
15,988
Votes |
9,939
Posts
JD Martin
  • Rock Star Extraordinaire
  • Northeast, TN
ModeratorReplied

All of the above.

If I am doing a rehab and we have easy access to them, and it doesn't cause a major production, we swap them out, usually for PEX but sometimes PVC/CPVC. Other times, if they are in difficult areas and the flow is good and not badly discolored or washing sediment into the basins, we will only do the main trunk line but leave the subsidiary lines. Occasionally, we don't mess with them at all if they look relatively clean inside if we've had a valve or tee off. If we make a repair on anything we don't put any galvanized fittings back as a rule. 

Most of the time we find that replacing the main trunk lines, if nothing else, and upsizing those lines makes a major difference in any flow problems. On the other hand, if your main service line from the street to the house is galvanized, and badly corroded, hardly anything you do in the house will make any difference. 

business profile image
Skyline Properties

Loading replies...